合成肽在敏感肌化妆品中的应用。
Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin.
作者信息
Resende Diana I S P, Ferreira Marta Salvador, Sousa-Lobo José Manuel, Sousa Emília, Almeida Isabel Filipa
机构信息
CIIMAR-Centro Interdisciplinar de Investigação Marinha e Ambiental, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal.
Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal.
出版信息
Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2021 Jul 21;14(8):702. doi: 10.3390/ph14080702.
Sensitive skin is characterized by symptoms of discomfort when exposed to environmental factors. Peptides are used in cosmetics for sensitive skin and stand out as active ingredients for their ability to interact with skin cells by multiple mechanisms, high potency at low dosage and the ability to penetrate the stratum corneum. This study aimed to analyze the composition of 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands regarding usage of peptides, reviewing their synthetic pathways and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Peptides were found in 17% of the products analyzed, namely: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-49, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide. Three out of seven peptides have a neurotransmitter-inhibiting mechanism of action, while another three are signal peptides. Only five peptides present evidence supporting their use in sensitive skin, with only one clinical study including volunteers having this condition. Noteworthy, the available data is mostly found in patents and supplier brochures, and not in randomized placebo-controlled studies. Peptides are useful active ingredients in cosmetics for sensitive skin. Knowing their efficacy and synthetic pathways provides meaningful insight for the development of new and more effective ingredients.
敏感性皮肤的特征是在暴露于环境因素时出现不适症状。肽类被用于敏感性皮肤的化妆品中,因其能够通过多种机制与皮肤细胞相互作用、低剂量时高效能以及穿透角质层的能力而成为活性成分。本研究旨在分析88种来自跨国品牌的敏感性皮肤面部化妆品中肽类的使用情况,回顾其合成途径以及支持其功效的科学证据。在所分析的产品中,17%含有肽类,具体为:乙酰基二肽-1十六烷基酯、棕榈酰三肽-8、乙酰基四肽-15、棕榈酰三肽-5、乙酰基六肽-49、棕榈酰四肽-7和棕榈酰寡肽。七种肽中有三种具有抑制神经递质的作用机制,另外三种是信号肽。仅有五种肽有证据支持其在敏感性皮肤中的使用,且仅有一项临床研究纳入了患有这种皮肤状况的志愿者。值得注意的是,现有数据大多来自专利和供应商手册,而非随机安慰剂对照研究。肽类是敏感性皮肤化妆品中有用的活性成分。了解它们的功效和合成途径可为开发新的、更有效的成分提供有意义的见解。