DNA Gensee, 17 rue du lac saint andré, Le Bourget du Lac, 73370, France.
L'Oréal, Aulnay-sous-Bois, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Feb;44(1):91-102. doi: 10.1111/ics.12757. Epub 2021 Dec 23.
This study was initiated and conducted by several laboratories, 3 of the main cosmetic ingredient suppliers and 4 brands of cosmetics in France. Its objective is to show the interest and robustness of coupling chemical and genetic analyses in the identification of plant species. In this study, the Lavandula genus was used.
In this study, we used two analytical methods. Chemical analysis from UHPLC (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography) and genetic analysis from barcoding with genetic markers.
Eleven lavender species were selected (botanically authenticated) and analysed. The results show that three chemical compounds (coumaric acid hexoside, ferulic acid hexoside and rosmarinic acid) and three genetic markers (RbcL, trnH-psbA and ITS) are of interest for the differentiation of species of the genus lavandula.
The results show that the combination of complementary analytical methods is a relevant system to prove the botanical identification of lavender species. This first study, carried out on a plant of interest for cosmetics, demonstrates the need for authentication using a tool combining genetic and chemical analysis as an advance over traditional investigation methods used alone, in terms of identification and authentication reliability.
本研究由多家实验室、三家主要化妆品成分供应商和法国的四个化妆品品牌共同发起和开展。其目的是展示化学分析和遗传分析相结合在鉴定植物物种方面的优势和稳健性。本研究以薰衣草属为研究对象。
本研究采用了两种分析方法。化学分析采用超高效液相色谱（UHPLC），遗传分析采用遗传标记的条形码技术。
选择了 11 种薰衣草（经植物学认证）进行分析。结果表明，三种化学化合物（香豆酸己糖苷、阿魏酸己糖苷和迷迭香酸）和三种遗传标记（RbcL、trnH-psbA 和 ITS）对薰衣草属物种的区分具有重要意义。
结果表明，互补分析方法的结合是证明薰衣草物种植物学鉴定的一种有效系统。这项在化妆品中具有重要意义的植物上进行的首次研究证明，在识别和验证可靠性方面，需要采用结合遗传和化学分析的工具来对其进行认证，这优于传统的单独使用的调查方法。
