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糖脂生物表面活性剂,甘露糖赤藓糖醇脂质:独特的界面性质及其在化妆品和个人护理产品中的应用。

Glycolipid Biosurfactants, Mannosylerythritol Lipids: Distinctive Interfacial Properties and Applications in Cosmetic and Personal Care Products.

机构信息

AIST-Chugoku, National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology (AIST).

Research Institute for Sustainable Chemistry, National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology (AIST).

出版信息

J Oleo Sci. 2021;71(1):1-13. doi: 10.5650/jos.ess21358.

DOI:10.5650/jos.ess21358
PMID:35013030
Abstract

Biosurfactants produced by a variety of microorganisms show attractive properties (e.g., higher surface activity and biodegradability, lower toxicity, and environmental compatibility) compared to chemically synthesized counterparts. The numerous advantages of biosurfactants have prompted their application to not only the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries, but agriculture and environmental protection disciplines as well. Among different types of biosurfactants, glycolipids are the most practically useful, due to their high product titers from renewable resources and versatile interfacial and biochemical properties. Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are characteristic glycolipid biosurfactants that are produced by different yeast strains of the genus Pseudozyma. MELs exhibit different lyotropic liquid crystalline phases, such as sponge (L), reverse bicontinuous cubic (V), or lamellar (L) phases; and they have high levels of surface activity at very low concentrations. MELs also show excellent moisturizing effects on human skin and hair, with comparable performance to natural ceramides. Today, MELs are commercially produced by a Japanese company and their use is rapidly expanding around the world. In this review, we will briefly describe the current R&D status of glycolipid biosurfactants, with a focus on the interfacial properties of MELs and their applications in cosmetic and personal care products.

摘要

与化学合成的同类物相比,各种微生物产生的生物表面活性剂具有吸引人的特性(例如,更高的表面活性和生物降解性、更低的毒性和环境相容性)。生物表面活性剂的众多优势促使它们不仅应用于食品、化妆品和制药行业,而且还应用于农业和环境保护学科。在不同类型的生物表面活性剂中,由于其可从可再生资源中获得高产物滴度和多功能的界面和生化特性,糖脂是最实用的。甘露糖赤藓糖醇脂(MELs)是由假丝酵母属的不同酵母菌株产生的特征性糖脂生物表面活性剂。MELs 表现出不同的溶致液晶相,如海绵(L)、反向双连续立方(V)或层状(L)相;并且它们在非常低的浓度下具有很高的表面活性。MELs 对人体皮肤和头发也具有出色的保湿效果,其性能可与天然神经酰胺相媲美。如今,MELs 由一家日本公司商业化生产,其用途在全球范围内迅速扩大。在这篇综述中,我们将简要描述糖脂生物表面活性剂的当前研发状况,重点介绍 MELs 的界面特性及其在化妆品和个人护理产品中的应用。

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