Zhu Lei, Lin Junxiong, Pei Liujun, Luo Yuni, Li Dali, Huang Zhichao
Engineering Research Centre for Eco-Dyeing and Finishing of Textiles, Ministry of Education, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China.
Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology, Ministry of Education, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China.
Polymers (Basel). 2022 Feb 9;14(4):659. doi: 10.3390/polym14040659.
Silk has been widely used not only in the textile field but also in non-textile applications, which is composed of inner fibrous protein, named fibroin, and outer global protein, named sericin. Due to big differences, such as appearance, solubility, amino acid composition and amount of reactive groups, silk fibroin and sericin usually need to be separated before further process. The residual sericin may influence the molecular weight, structure, morphology and properties of silk fibroin, so that degumming of silk is important and necessary, not only in textile field but also in non-textile applications. Traditional textile degumming processes, including soap, alkali or both, could bring such problems as environmental damage, heavy use of water and energy, and damage to silk fibroin. Therefore, this review aims to present a systematic work on environmentally friendly and green degumming processes of raw silk, including art of green degumming process, quantitative and qualitative evaluation, influence of degumming on molecular weight, structure, morphology and properties of silk. It is anticipated that rational selection and design of environmentally friendly and green degumming process is quite important and meaningful, not only for textile application but also for non-textile application.
丝绸不仅在纺织领域得到广泛应用,还应用于非纺织领域,它由内部的纤维状蛋白质(称为丝素蛋白)和外部的球状蛋白质(称为丝胶蛋白)组成。由于在外观、溶解性、氨基酸组成和反应基团数量等方面存在很大差异,丝素蛋白和丝胶蛋白通常需要在进一步加工之前进行分离。残留的丝胶蛋白可能会影响丝素蛋白的分子量、结构、形态和性能,因此,丝绸脱胶不仅在纺织领域,而且在非纺织应用中都非常重要且必要。传统的纺织脱胶工艺,包括使用肥皂、碱或两者兼用,会带来环境破坏、大量用水和能源以及损害丝素蛋白等问题。因此,本综述旨在对生丝的环保和绿色脱胶工艺进行系统研究,包括绿色脱胶工艺的技术、定量和定性评估、脱胶对丝素蛋白分子量、结构、形态和性能的影响。预计合理选择和设计环保和绿色脱胶工艺不仅对纺织应用,而且对非纺织应用都非常重要且有意义。