Wu Huihui, Zhou Jiali, Zhu Panpan, Li Jing, Li Yufeng
Pan Tianshou College of Architecture, Art and Design, Ningbo University, Ningbo 315211, China.
International Institute of Silk, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China.
Polymers (Basel). 2024 Oct 18;16(20):2926. doi: 10.3390/polym16202926.
Alkali printing was one of the traditional techniques employed for printing on silk georgette in ancient China. This study investigates two degumming methods in alkaline printing processes, namely alkaline boiling and alkaline steaming, based on the principles of Tang Dynasty alkaline printing techniques. The effects of slaked lime concentration, steam temperature, and steam duration on the degumming rate of silk georgette are studied. Alkaline boiling is found to be rapid and effective, achieving a degumming rate of 27% at 80 °C in 30 min, whereas alkaline steaming requires a prolonged process with a maximum degumming rate of less than 20% before the water reaches its boiling point. Additionally, the differences in dyeing effects at various degumming rates, and the variations in pattern clarity and detail under alkaline steaming, were compared. Although both degumming methods can achieve the desired amount of degumming rate through process control, alkaline steaming allows for integration with methods like screen printing and rotary printing, offering better control over pattern freedom and detail. The combination of these two processes can further expand the artistic expression and application of traditional alkaline printing techniques in contemporary silk degumming printing.
碱印是中国古代用于在乔其纱上印花的传统技术之一。本研究基于唐代碱印技术原理，对碱印工艺中的两种脱胶方法，即碱煮和碱蒸进行了研究。研究了熟石灰浓度、蒸汽温度和蒸汽持续时间对乔其纱脱胶率的影响。发现碱煮快速有效，在80°C下30分钟内脱胶率可达27%，而碱蒸过程较长，在水达到沸点之前最大脱胶率不到20%。此外，还比较了不同脱胶率下的染色效果差异，以及碱蒸下图案清晰度和细节的变化。虽然两种脱胶方法都可以通过工艺控制达到所需的脱胶率，但碱蒸可以与丝网印刷和轮转印刷等方法相结合，在图案自由度和细节控制方面表现更好。这两种工艺的结合可以进一步拓展传统碱印技术在当代丝绸脱胶印花中的艺术表现力和应用。
