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分泌组作为一类新兴的生物活性成分,用于增强药妆应用。

Secretomes as an emerging class of bioactive ingredients for enhanced cosmeceutical applications.

作者信息

Tan Kei-Xian, Chang Trixie, Lin Xiangliang

机构信息

Esco Aster Pte Ltd, Singapore, Singapore.

出版信息

Exp Dermatol. 2022 May;31(5):674-688. doi: 10.1111/exd.14570. Epub 2022 Mar 31.

DOI:10.1111/exd.14570
PMID:35338666
Abstract

Skin ageing is predominantly caused by either intrinsic or extrinsic factors, leading to undesirable skin features. Advancements in both molecular and cellular fields have created possibilities in developing novel stem cell-derived active ingredients for cosmeceutical applications and the beauty industry. Mesenchymal stromal cell (MSC)-derived secretomes or conditioned media hold great promise for advancing skin repair and regeneration due to the presence of varying cytokines. These cytokines signal our cells and trigger biological mechanisms associated with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-ageing, proliferative and immunomodulatory effects. In this review, we discuss the potential of MSC secretomes as novel biomaterials for skincare and rejuvenation by illustrating their mechanism of action related to wound healing, anti-ageing and whitening properties. The advantages and disadvantages of secretomes are compared with both plant-based and animal-derived extracts. In addition, this paper reviews the current safety standards, regulations, market products and research work related to the cosmeceutical applications of secretomes along with strategies to maintain and improve the therapeutic efficacy and production of secretomes. The future outlook of beauty industry is also presented. Lastly, we highlight significant challenges to be addressed for the clinical realization of MSC secretomes-based skin therapies as well as providing perspectives for the future direction of secretomes.

摘要

皮肤老化主要由内在或外在因素引起,导致出现不理想的皮肤特征。分子和细胞领域的进展为开发用于药妆应用和美容行业的新型干细胞衍生活性成分创造了可能性。间充质基质细胞(MSC)衍生的分泌产物或条件培养基由于存在多种细胞因子,在促进皮肤修复和再生方面具有巨大潜力。这些细胞因子向我们的细胞发出信号,并触发与抗炎、抗氧化、抗老化、增殖和免疫调节作用相关的生物学机制。在本综述中,我们通过阐述其与伤口愈合、抗老化和美白特性相关的作用机制,探讨了MSC分泌产物作为用于皮肤护理和年轻化的新型生物材料的潜力。将分泌产物的优缺点与植物提取物和动物提取物进行了比较。此外,本文综述了与分泌产物药妆应用相关的当前安全标准、法规、市场产品和研究工作,以及维持和提高分泌产物治疗效果和产量的策略。还介绍了美容行业的未来展望。最后,我们强调了基于MSC分泌产物的皮肤疗法临床实现中需要解决的重大挑战,并为分泌产物的未来发展方向提供了观点。

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