Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Sao Paulo, Ribeirao Preto, Brazil.
Department of Dermatology and Allergology, Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Berlin, Germany.
Photochem Photobiol. 2023 Jan;99(1):176-183. doi: 10.1111/php.13660. Epub 2022 Jul 25.
This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.
本研究旨在评估茶树纯精油及其纳米乳液对预防皮肤光老化的渗透深度、抗氧化能力和临床疗效。为此，我们将 2%的纯精油或 2%的这种精油载于制剂中。使用共焦拉曼显微镜评估皮肤渗透。使用电子顺磁共振波谱法评估自由基保护因子。在一项临床研究中，招募了 40 名年龄在 18-28 岁之间的男性参与者，分为三组：载体配方组、茶树纯精油组和茶树纳米乳液组。所有参与者还在白天使用 SPF50 的防晒霜。在研究的 90 天前后，通过皮肤成像和生物物理技术对皮肤水脂特性和形态特征进行了评估。纳米乳液表现出较低的抗氧化能力和更高的穿过角质层的能力，到达有活力的表皮，改善了颗粒层的形态。各小组的乳头深度增加，真皮回声和胶原纤维得到改善。茶树精油具有改善光老化皮肤的潜力，纳米乳液的应用能够到达更深的皮肤层。
