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中世纪的护肤方法,依据的是玛蒂格斯特拉·特罗图拉和萨勒诺医学院的配方,以及对第三个千年的化妆品学的反映。

The medieval skincare routine according to the formulations of Madgistra Trotula and the Medical School of Salerno and its reflection on cosmetology of the third millennium.

机构信息

Department of Medicine, Surgery and Dentistry 'Scuola Medica Salernitana', University of Salerno, Baronissi, Italy.

UNESCO Chair Salerno, Plantae Medicinales Mediterraneae, University of Salerno, Fisciano, Italy.

出版信息

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Feb;22(2):542-554. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15234. Epub 2022 Aug 9.

DOI:10.1111/jocd.15234
PMID:35822229
原文链接:https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10087853/
Abstract

BACKGROUND

Officinal plants, minerals, animal derivatives, and miscellaneous have always been used to treat and improve appearance despite the different aesthetic canons of a specific historical and cultural context.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this work was to make a critical comparison between medieval and modern dermocosmetics analyzing the works of Trotula de Ruggiero, a female doctor of the 11th century teaching and working inside the illustrious "Medical School of Salerno," who devoted particular attention to the promotion of female care, beauty, and well-being.

METHODS

We applied the historical-critical method analyzing the Latin text and the nglish translation of the standardized corpus of the main Trotula medieval manuscript De Ornatu Mulierum with a multidisciplinary scientific approach ranging from botany to pharmaceutical chemistry and technology, pharmacology and pathology.

RESULTS

We identified the medicinal plants, derivatives of animal origin and minerals used in the recipes of Trotula, highlighting their biological properties in the light of current scientific knowledge. A critical comparison between medieval and modern dermocosmetics is reported also taking into consideration the chemical, pharmaceutical, and technological literature.

CONCLUSION

Beyond the obvious changes in the paradigms of cosmetology and the different beauty canons of Middle Age with respect to modern times, our results emphasize the attention of Trotula to female care, beauty and well-being as well as the extraordinary combination of tradition and modernity in her work.

摘要

背景

尽管在特定的历史文化背景下存在不同的审美标准,但药用植物、矿物、动物衍生品和杂项一直被用于治疗和改善外观。

目的

本研究旨在通过分析 11 世纪著名的“萨勒诺医学院”女医生特鲁托拉·德·鲁杰罗(Trotula de Ruggiero)的著作,对中世纪和现代的皮肤化妆品进行批判性比较,她特别关注女性护理、美容和健康。

方法

我们应用历史批判方法分析了特鲁托拉中世纪主要手稿《论女性之美》的拉丁文本和英文翻译标准语料库,并采用多学科科学方法,从植物学到药物化学和技术、药理学和病理学。

结果

我们确定了特鲁托拉配方中使用的药用植物、动物源性衍生物和矿物质,根据当前的科学知识强调了它们的生物学特性。还考虑了化学、药物和技术文献,对中世纪和现代皮肤化妆品进行了批判性比较。

结论

除了化妆品学的明显变化和中世纪与现代不同的审美标准外,我们的研究结果还强调了特鲁托拉对女性护理、美容和健康的关注,以及她的作品中传统与现代的非凡结合。