INSLAB, Maribor, Slovenia.
University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Pharmacy, Aškerčeva cesta 7, 1000, Ljubljana, Slovenia.
Adv Ther. 2022 Dec;39(12):5351-5375. doi: 10.1007/s12325-022-02319-7. Epub 2022 Oct 11.
Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.
如今,有许多护肤方法可用于使衰老的皮肤恢复活力。视黄醇是抗衰老治疗中最常用的成分之一。在视黄醇类药物中,视黄醇被认为是最有效的药物,已被证明对皮肤具有抗衰老作用,可在经批准的用于治疗痤疮、面部皱纹和色素沉着的局部药物制剂中找到。其他在局部药物中存在的视黄醇类药物用于各种适应症,但只有他扎罗汀也被批准为治疗面部细小皱纹和色素沉着的辅助药物。最常用的视黄醇类药物,如视黄醇、视黄醛和视黄醇棕榈酸酯,都包含在受监管的化妆品中。由于不需要进行上市前的临床疗效研究,因此人们对这些视黄醇的疗效存在担忧。从制剂的角度来看,由于其已被证实的不稳定性、低渗透性和潜在的皮肤刺激性,视黄醇给研究人员带来了挑战。因此,基于纳米技术的新型给药系统正在被开发,以克服传统制剂的局限性并提高患者的顺应性。在这篇综述中,评估了传统和纳米制剂中视黄醇在局部抗衰老治疗中的临床证据。此外,还介绍了他扎罗汀与其他视黄醇之间的比较临床试验概述。总的来说,缺乏适当设计的临床试验证据来支持最常用的视黄醇作为化妆品中抗衰老药物的声称疗效。在药物中包含的其他视黄醇中,与视黄醇相比,他扎罗汀和阿达帕林具有经过临床评估的抗衰老作用,并且可能被认为是抗衰老治疗的潜在替代品。视黄醇纳米制剂的有前景的潜力需要更全面的评估,并进行更多的研究来支持初步发现。
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