El-Sayed H, Mowafi S, Basuoni A S
Proteinic and Man-made Fibres Department, Textile Research and Technology Institute, National Research Centre, 12622-Dokki, Giza, Egypt.
Heliyon. 2022 Oct 8;8(10):e10985. doi: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2022.e10985. eCollection 2022 Oct.
Crossbred wool is widely used in the textile and clothing fields. Nevertheless, the surface roughness of crossbred wool fabric is higher than that of Merino wool. Herein we propose a reactive nonionic softener (RNS) based on fatty acid (FA) and 2-amino-2-methyl propane diol (AMPD) to impart desirable multi-functions for crossbred wool fabric, such as improved smoothness, enhanced wettability, and induced resistance to felting shrinkage. Adopting the pad-dry-cure method, treatment of wool with the said softener was carried out using different concentrations of FA/AMPD condensate at different curing temperatures and durations. The results showed that the highest fabric surface smoothness was attained when wool fabric was treated with 3.5% (o.w.f.) RNS, and the curing temperature and time were 130 °C and 5 min, respectively. The surface smoothness of the treated fabric and its resistance to felting shrinkage were increased by 21.7% and 90% respectively. The effects of treatment of wool with the RNS on its bending stiffness, air and water permeability, yellowness, electrostatic charge, and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) were monitored. The reaction mechanism between the used RNS and wool was studied using FTIR spectroscopy. Scanning electron microscopic investigation showed a layer of the used RNS on the surface of the treated fabric. The finished fabric retained its air permeability and dyeability with anionic dye. The imparted fabric smoothness was find to be durable against washing until 5 washing cycles, and decreased by 5.5% of after 10 washing cycles respectively.
杂交羊毛广泛应用于纺织和服装领域。然而，杂交羊毛织物的表面粗糙度高于美利奴羊毛。在此，我们提出一种基于脂肪酸（FA）和2-氨基-2-甲基丙二醇（AMPD）的反应性非离子柔软剂（RNS），以赋予杂交羊毛织物所需的多种功能，如改善光滑度、增强润湿性和诱导抗毡缩性。采用浸轧-烘干-焙烘法，在不同的焙烘温度和时间下，使用不同浓度的FA/AMPD缩合物对羊毛进行所述柔软剂处理。结果表明，当羊毛织物用3.5%（owf）的RNS处理，焙烘温度和时间分别为130℃和5分钟时，织物表面光滑度最高。处理后的织物表面光滑度和抗毡缩性分别提高了21.7%和90%。监测了RNS处理羊毛对其弯曲刚度、透气率、透湿率、泛黄度、静电电荷和紫外线防护系数（UPF）的影响。使用傅里叶变换红外光谱（FTIR）研究了所用RNS与羊毛之间的反应机理。扫描电子显微镜研究表明，在处理后的织物表面有一层所用的RNS。整理后的织物保留了其透气率和对阴离子染料的染色性。赋予的织物光滑度在5次洗涤循环前耐洗，10次洗涤循环后分别下降了5.5%。
