Hassan Mohammad M, Carr Christopher M
Bioproduct & Fiber Technology Team, AgResearch Ltd, Private Bag 4749, Christchurch 8140, Canterbury, New Zealand.
School of Design, University of Leeds, Leeds LS2 9JT, United Kingdom.
J Adv Res. 2019 Jan 31;18:39-60. doi: 10.1016/j.jare.2019.01.014. eCollection 2019 Jul.
Wool fiber is a natural protein fiber, which is used for the manufacturing of apparels, and floorcoverings because of its excellent fire retardancy, stain-resistance, antistatic and odor control properties along with exceptional warmth and resilience. However, wool fiber has several serious demerits, such as garments made of wool fibers extensively shrink during their laundering. To overcome this problem, wool fibers, especially those are used in apparel, are frequently shrink-resist treated to make them machine-washable. A wide range of treatments including oxidative, enzymatic, radiation, polymeric coatings, sol-gel coatings, and plasma treatments have been investigated to make wool fiber shrink-resistant. In this review, the mechanisms of wool fiber shrinkage, the research carried out until recently to make wool fiber shrink-resistant, and the current status of the sustainable alternatives developed, have been compiled and presented. The various methods investigated have been critically discussed with their merits and demerits, shrink-resist performance, and their shrink-resistance mechanisms. The chemistry and synthesis of various polymers used for the shrink-resistance and their reactions with wool fiber have been outlined. This review also includes the current challenges to make shrink-resist treatments green and sustainable, and also the future directions to meet these challenges. Some of the treatments investigated may affect the biodegradability of wool fibers, especially those are based on coating with synthetic polymers. A sustainable alternative polymeric coating based on sustainably produced polymeric resins, especially bio-based resins, needs to be developed so that the future treatments become sustainable.
羊毛纤维是一种天然蛋白质纤维,因其出色的阻燃性、抗污性、抗静电和气味控制特性以及卓越的保暖性和弹性,被用于制造服装和地板覆盖物。然而,羊毛纤维有几个严重的缺点,比如用羊毛纤维制成的衣物在洗涤时会大幅缩水。为克服这一问题,羊毛纤维,尤其是用于服装的羊毛纤维,经常进行防缩处理以使其可机洗。人们已经研究了多种处理方法,包括氧化处理、酶处理、辐射处理、聚合物涂层处理、溶胶 - 凝胶涂层处理和等离子体处理,以使羊毛纤维具有抗缩性。在这篇综述中,汇编并介绍了羊毛纤维缩水的机制、直到最近为使羊毛纤维具有抗缩性所开展的研究,以及已开发的可持续替代方法的现状。对所研究的各种方法进行了批判性讨论,分析了它们的优缺点、抗缩性能及其抗缩机制。概述了用于抗缩的各种聚合物的化学性质和合成方法以及它们与羊毛纤维的反应。这篇综述还包括使抗缩处理实现绿色和可持续发展面临的当前挑战,以及应对这些挑战的未来方向。所研究的一些处理方法可能会影响羊毛纤维的生物降解性,尤其是那些基于合成聚合物涂层的方法。需要开发一种基于可持续生产的聚合物树脂,特别是生物基树脂的可持续替代聚合物涂层,以便未来的处理方法具有可持续性。