Department of Chemical and Food Engineering, Technological Center, Federal University of Santa Catarina, Florianópolis, Brazil.
Department of Chemical and Food Engineering, Technological Center, Federal University of Santa Catarina, Florianópolis, Brazil.
Int J Biol Macromol. 2023 Mar 15;231:123258. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2023.123258. Epub 2023 Jan 15.
This work aimed to evaluate the effects of the incorporation of papain in biopolymeric-based beauty face masks with exfoliation activity of the skin. The masks were produced by casting with starch and carboxymethyl cellulose blend (50:50 weight percentages). The macro and microstructure, protein distribution, thickness, moisture content, water contact angle, solubility matter, and mechanical properties were evaluated. Moreover, the in vitro proteolytic and exfoliation activity and storage stability were also evaluated. The films with papain had a more concise matrix which provided higher mechanical properties and lower water solubility when compared to the control film (without papain). Films with 1, 2, and 5 % of papain had enzymatic activity for casein and porcine skin substrates. The micrographs of porcine skin treated with 2 and 5 % of papain showed more difference when compared to the control sample, indicating the enzymatic exfoliation. Differently from the solution of papain, the enzyme that was immobilized in the films maintained its activity for up 90 days during the storage stability assay. Based on the physicochemical properties and proteolytic activities, the films preserved the exfoliation activity of papain and have interesting characteristics to act as beauty masks in the cosmetic field.
本工作旨在评估木瓜蛋白酶在具有皮肤去角质作用的基于生物聚合物的美容面膜中的效果。面膜通过淀粉和羧甲基纤维素共混物（重量百分比为 50:50）浇铸生产。评估了宏观和微观结构、蛋白质分布、厚度、水分含量、水接触角、可溶性物质和机械性能。此外，还评估了体外蛋白水解和去角质活性以及储存稳定性。与不含木瓜蛋白酶的对照膜相比，含有木瓜蛋白酶的膜具有更简洁的基质，从而提供了更高的机械性能和更低的水溶性。含有 1%、2%和 5%木瓜蛋白酶的薄膜对酪蛋白和猪皮底物具有酶活性。用 2%和 5%木瓜蛋白酶处理的猪皮的显微照片与对照样品相比显示出更大的差异，表明存在酶促去角质作用。与木瓜蛋白酶溶液不同，固定在薄膜中的酶在储存稳定性试验期间保持 90 天的活性。基于物理化学性质和蛋白水解活性，这些薄膜保留了木瓜蛋白酶的去角质活性，并且具有作为化妆品领域美容面膜的有趣特性。
