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使用液相色谱-电喷雾电离质谱法对植物化学成分进行分析、高良姜(野生)提取物负载乳胶的体外、体内特性及药妆效果研究

Profiling of phytochemicals using LC-ESI-MS , in vitro, in vivo characterization and cosmeceutical effects of Alpinia galanga (wild) extract loaded emulgel.

作者信息

Khan Muhammad Shahzad, Adnan Qazi, Akhtar Naveed

机构信息

Faculty of Pharmacy, The Islamia University of Bahawalpur, Bahawalpur, Pakistan.

出版信息

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 May;22(5):1628-1641. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15623. Epub 2023 Jan 31.

DOI:10.1111/jocd.15623
PMID:36718832
Abstract

BACKGROUND

The potential as a depigmenting agent, sun protection, and healthy benefits is indicated by the sun protection factor, radical scavenging, and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of Alpinia galanga (wild).

AIMS

A stable emulgel containing A .galanga (wild) extract is prepared. This emulgel is then characterized by in vitro evaluation and identification of contents by LC-ESI-MS . In vivo performance is counted in terms of moisturizing, melanin level, erythema, sebum, skin fine pores and large pores analysis, and other related physiological skin parameters.

METHODS

DPPH radical scavenging activity, total phenolic and flavonoid counts were used to measure the free radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibitory capability of A .galanga (wild) extract, respectively. LC-ESI-MS used for phytochemical analysis. Emulgels synthesize, and their globule size, Ultracentrifugation, pH, and conductivity were all evaluated. Among the developed formulations, the optimal emulgels formulation underwent 90-day stability tests for organoleptic characteristics and rheology at 8°C, 25°C, 40°C, and 40°C + 75% RH (relative humidity). Using sebumeter®, mexameter®, and corneometer®, changes in skin physiological parameters were assessed over the course of 12 weeks in 13 healthy male, Asian volunteers. VisioFace® is used for computational analysis of high-resolution pictures to determine the % area, fine pore counts, and large pore counts of the skin.

RESULTS

The antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibitory potential and counts of total phenolic and flavonoids of A .galanga (wild) extract were impressive (85%, 75%, and 48.0 mg GAE/g and 14.37 mg quercetin/g, respectively). In terms of stability evaluation, globule size (0.7528 ± 0.192 μm). Optimized A .galanga (wild) ethanol aqueous (AGEA) extract loaded emulgel was stable in terms of organoleptic and in vitro evaluation. The AGEA formulation significantly reduced the amount of sebum, erythema, fine pore counts, large pore counts, fine pore % area and large pores area percentage while significantly improved the moisture and elasticity of the skin.

CONCLUSION

A stable A .galanga (wild) extract loaded emulgel was successfully produced that improved the skin physiological parameters in terms of skin's sebum, erythema, moisturizing, melanin, and pores.

摘要

背景

高良姜(野生)的防晒系数、自由基清除能力和酪氨酸酶抑制活性表明其具有作为色素脱失剂、防晒剂以及对健康有益的潜力。

目的

制备一种含有高良姜(野生)提取物的稳定乳化凝胶。然后通过体外评估以及利用液相色谱 - 电喷雾电离质谱法(LC - ESI - MS)对其成分进行鉴定来对该乳化凝胶进行表征。从保湿、黑色素水平、红斑、皮脂、皮肤细毛孔和大毛孔分析以及其他相关皮肤生理参数方面对其体内性能进行评估。

方法

分别采用二苯基苦味酰基自由基(DPPH)清除活性、总酚含量和黄酮含量来测定高良姜(野生)提取物的自由基清除能力和酪氨酸酶抑制能力。利用LC - ESI - MS进行植物化学分析。合成乳化凝胶,并对其粒径、超速离心、pH值和电导率进行评估。在研发的配方中,对优化后的乳化凝胶配方在8°C、25°C、40°C以及40°C + 75%相对湿度(RH)条件下进行90天的感官特性和流变学稳定性测试。使用皮脂仪、黑色素仪和角质层水合测定仪,在13名健康的亚洲男性志愿者中,在12周的时间里评估皮肤生理参数的变化。使用VisioFace®对高分辨率图片进行计算分析,以确定皮肤的面积百分比、细毛孔数量和大毛孔数量。

结果

高良姜(野生)提取物的抗氧化、酪氨酸酶抑制潜力以及总酚和黄酮含量令人印象深刻(分别为85%、75%、48.0毫克没食子酸当量/克和14.37毫克槲皮素/克)。在稳定性评估方面,粒径为(0.7528 ± 0.192微米)。优化后的负载高良姜(野生)乙醇水溶液(AGEA)提取物的乳化凝胶在感官和体外评估方面是稳定的。AGEA配方显著降低了皮脂量、红斑、细毛孔数量、大毛孔数量、细毛孔面积百分比和大毛孔面积百分比,同时显著改善了皮肤的水分和弹性。

结论

成功制备了一种稳定负载高良姜(野生)提取物的乳化凝胶,该凝胶在皮肤的皮脂、红斑、保湿、黑色素和毛孔方面改善了皮肤生理参数。

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