Couteau Céline, Diarra Harona, Lecoq Manon, Ali Aline, Bernet Mélanie, Coiffard Laurence
All authors are with the University of Nantes, Faculty of Pharmacy in Nantes, France.
Mr. Diarra is with University of Paris-Saclay, Faculty of Pharamacy in Châtenay-Malabry, France.
J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2023 Jan;16(1):18-24.
Two recent trends that have developed simultaneously are a mistrust of health products by some of the population and the growing popularity of essential oils. The objective of this study was to analyze recipes with essential oils found on the internet and to assess their level of photoprotective efficacy. Therefore, we conducted a study of 140 recipes for personal care and hygiene products that incorporate one or more essential oils. This analysis revealed that numerous essential oils are called for in these recipes, derived from plants belonging to a wide diversity of botanical families. There was a significant difference (=0.0026) in the number of essential oils listed in the recipes for facial care and body care recipes. There was also a statistically significant difference (=2.54E-5) in the amount of essential oil to be added, expressed in drops, according to the type of product being made. A common characteristic of most of the recipes was the absence of any antimicrobial agents or antioxidants, which poses serious issues of preservation for the finished products. Recipes with essential oils pose many issues. The first issue lies in the quantities of the different raw materials to be incorporated; it influences the final essential oil concentration. The second issue concerns the adverse effects (photosensitization, for example) and contraindications (pregnant women, nursing women) of certain essential oils. Finally, it is not possible to carry out physicochemical testing raw materials and finish preparation.
最近同时出现的两个趋势是部分人群对健康产品的不信任以及精油越来越受欢迎。本研究的目的是分析互联网上找到的含精油配方,并评估其光保护功效水平。因此,我们对140种包含一种或多种精油的个人护理和卫生产品配方进行了研究。该分析表明,这些配方中需要多种精油,它们来源于广泛的植物科属。面部护理配方和身体护理配方中列出的精油数量存在显著差异(=0.0026)。根据所制作产品的类型,按滴计算的添加精油量也存在统计学上的显著差异(=2.54E - 5)。大多数配方的一个共同特点是没有任何抗菌剂或抗氧化剂,这给成品的保存带来了严重问题。含精油配方存在诸多问题。第一个问题在于要加入的不同原材料的数量;这会影响最终的精油浓度。第二个问题涉及某些精油的不良反应(例如光敏反应)和禁忌情况(孕妇、哺乳期妇女)。最后,无法对原材料和成品制剂进行物理化学测试。