Carvalho I T, Estevinho B N, Santos L
LEPABE, Departamento de Engenharia Química, Faculdade de Engenharia da Universidade do Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias, 4200-465, Porto, Portugal.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016 Apr;38(2):109-19. doi: 10.1111/ics.12232. Epub 2015 May 25.
Nowadays, the consumers around the world are increasingly focused on health and beauty. The renewed consumer interest in natural cosmetic products creates the demand for new products and reformulated others with botanical and functional ingredients. In cosmetic products, essential oils (EOs) play a major role as fragrance ingredients. They can optimize its proprieties and preservation, as well as the marketing image of the final product. Microencapsulation of EOs can protect and prevent the loss of volatile aromatic ingredients and improve the controlled release and stability of this core materials. The importance of EOs for cosmetic industry and its microencapsulation was reviewed in this study. Also a briefly introduction about the preparation of microparticles was presented. Some of the most important and usual microencapsulation techniques of EOs, as well as the conventional encapsulating agents, were discussed. Despite the fact that microencapsulation of EOs is a very promising and extremely attractive application area for cosmetic industry, further basic research needs to be carried out, for a better understanding of the biofunctional activities of microencapsulated EOs and its release modulation, as well as the effects of others cosmetic ingredients and the storage time in the microparticles properties.
如今，世界各地的消费者越来越关注健康与美容。消费者对天然化妆品的兴趣再度兴起，这催生了对新产品的需求，并促使其他产品采用植物和功能性成分进行重新配方。在化妆品中，精油作为香料成分发挥着重要作用。它们可以优化产品的特性和保存性能，以及最终产品的市场形象。精油的微胶囊化可以保护并防止挥发性芳香成分的损失，同时改善这种核心材料的控释性能和稳定性。本研究综述了精油对化妆品行业的重要性及其微胶囊化。此外，还简要介绍了微粒的制备方法。讨论了一些最重要且常用的精油微胶囊化技术以及传统的包囊剂。尽管精油微胶囊化对化妆品行业来说是一个非常有前景且极具吸引力的应用领域，但仍需要开展进一步的基础研究，以便更好地了解微胶囊化精油的生物功能活性及其释放调节，以及其他化妆品成分的影响和储存时间对微粒性能的作用。
