IUF - Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine, Dusseldorf, Germany.
Medical Faculty, Heinrich-Heine-University, Düsseldorf, Germany.
Br J Dermatol. 2023 Feb 10;188(2):168-175. doi: 10.1093/bjd/ljac046.
Skin of colour or pigmented skin has unique characteristics: it has a higher eumelanin-to-pheomelanin ratio, more mature melanosomes, an increased amount of melanin distributed in the upper layers of the epidermis, and more efficient DNA repair compared with lighter skin. However, individuals with skin of colour are at a significant risk of skin damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, including the development of photodermatoses and photoageing changes such as uneven skin tone, and are predisposed to pigmentary disorders. In fact, one of the most common conditions leading to dermatology consultations by patients with skin of colour is photoexacerbated pigmentary disorders. Unfortunately, individuals with skin of colour may be less prone to engage in photoprotective measures, including the use of sunscreens. Physicians are also less likely to prescribe sunscreens for them. There is thus a clear need for better education on photodamage and for more efficient and suitable photoprotection in populations with skin of colour. However, this need has thus far only partially been met, and the development of sunscreen products designed to provide optimal photoprotection for people with skin of colour remains a challenge. Targeted sunscreens for individuals with skin of colour require optimal cosmetic appeal (leaving no white residue and not disrupting skin tone). They should include broad-spectrum [ultraviolet (UV)B/UVA] protection with high sun protection factor, as well as protection against long-wave UVA (UVA1) and visible light, as these wavelengths are capable of inducing or augmenting pigmentary disorders. They may also contain depigmenting agents for patients with pigmentary disorders.
它的真黑色素与褐黑色素比例较高，黑素体更成熟，黑色素在表皮上层的分布更多，并且与浅色皮肤相比，其 DNA 修复效率更高。然而，有色人种的个体面临着由紫外线辐射引起的皮肤损伤的高风险，包括光皮肤病的发展和光老化变化，如肤色不均匀，并且易患色素紊乱。事实上，导致有色人种患者就诊皮肤科的最常见病症之一就是光加重的色素紊乱。不幸的是，有色人种的个体可能不太倾向于采取防晒措施，包括使用防晒霜。医生也不太可能为他们开防晒霜。因此，有色人种群体需要更好地了解光损伤，并采取更有效和更适合的光防护措施。然而，到目前为止，这一需求仅得到部分满足，开发针对有色人种的提供最佳光防护的防晒霜产品仍然是一个挑战。针对有色人种个体的靶向防晒霜需要具有最佳的美容吸引力（不留白色残留物且不破坏肤色）。它们应包括广谱 [紫外线 (UVB/UVA)] 保护，具有高防晒因子，以及对长波 UVA (UVA1) 和可见光的保护，因为这些波长能够诱导或加重色素紊乱。它们还可以为色素紊乱的患者提供脱色剂。
