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常用化妆品防腐剂对健康人皮肤细胞的影响。

Effect of Commonly Used Cosmetic Preservatives on Healthy Human Skin Cells.

机构信息

Department of Synthesis and Chemical Technology of Pharmaceutical Substances, Medical University of Lublin, 20-093 Lublin, Poland.

Department of Medical Chemistry, Medical University of Lublin, 20-093 Lublin, Poland.

出版信息

Cells. 2023 Apr 3;12(7):1076. doi: 10.3390/cells12071076.

Abstract

Cosmetic products contain preservatives to prevent microbial growth. The various types of preservatives present in skincare products applied on the skin induce many side effects. We tested several types of preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea (IU), the composition of gluconolactone and sodium benzoate (GSB), diazolidinyl urea (DU), and two grapefruit essential oils, one of which was industrially produced and a second which was freshly distilled from fresh grapefruit peels. This study aimed to find the relationship between preservative concentration, cell growth, collagen secretion, and cell viability. We hypothesized that these products induced a decrease in collagen secretion from human dermal fibroblasts. Our research, for the first time, addressed the overall effect of other preservatives on skin extracellular matrix (ECM) by studying their effect on metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) activity. Except for cytotoxicity and contact sensitivity tests, there are no studies of their effect on skin ECM in the available literature. These studies show potential antimicrobial activity, especially from the compounds IU and DU towards reference bacteria and the compounds methyl paraben and propyl paraben against reference fungi. The MTS test showed that fibroblasts are more sensitive to the tested group of preservatives than keratinocytes, which could be caused by the differences between the cells' structures. The grapefruit oils exhibited the most cytotoxicity to both tested cell lines compared to all considered preservatives. The most destructive influence of preservatives on collagen synthesis was observed in the case of IU and DU. In this case, the homemade grapefruit oil turned out to be the mildest one. The results from a diverse group of preservatives show that whether they are natural or synthesized compounds, they require controlled use. Appropriate dosages and evaluation of preservative efficacy should not be the only aspects considered. The complex effect of preservatives on skin processes and cytotoxicity is an important topic for modern people.

摘要

化妆品中含有防腐剂,以防止微生物生长。应用于皮肤的护肤品中存在的各种类型的防腐剂会引起许多副作用。我们测试了几种类型的防腐剂,如苯氧乙醇、甲基对羟基苯甲酸酯、丙基对羟基苯甲酸酯、咪唑烷基脲(IU)、葡萄糖酸内酯和苯甲酸钠(GSB)的组合物、二羟二甲基乙内酰脲(DU),以及两种葡萄柚精油,其中一种是工业生产的,另一种是从新鲜葡萄柚皮新鲜蒸馏的。本研究旨在寻找防腐剂浓度、细胞生长、胶原蛋白分泌和细胞活力之间的关系。我们假设这些产品会导致人真皮成纤维细胞胶原蛋白分泌减少。我们的研究首次通过研究其对金属蛋白酶-2(MMP-2)活性的影响,研究了其他防腐剂对皮肤细胞外基质(ECM)的整体影响。除细胞毒性和接触敏感性测试外,目前的文献中没有关于其对皮肤 ECM 影响的研究。这些研究表明,除了化合物 IU 和 DU 对参考细菌具有潜在的抗菌活性外,化合物甲基对羟基苯甲酸酯和丙基对羟基苯甲酸酯对参考真菌也具有抗菌活性。MTS 测试表明,与角质形成细胞相比,成纤维细胞对测试组防腐剂更敏感,这可能是由于细胞结构的差异造成的。与所有考虑的防腐剂相比,葡萄柚油对两种测试细胞系的细胞毒性最大。在 IU 和 DU 的情况下,防腐剂对胶原蛋白合成的破坏性影响最大。在这种情况下,自制的葡萄柚油是最温和的。不同种类防腐剂的结果表明,无论是天然的还是合成的化合物,都需要控制使用。适当的剂量和防腐剂功效的评估不应是唯一需要考虑的因素。防腐剂对皮肤过程和细胞毒性的复杂影响是现代人关注的一个重要话题。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/f3d3/10093056/ef1dcdb0d2b6/cells-12-01076-g001.jpg

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