L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-Sous-Bois, France.
Service de Dermatologie, Hôpital Saint-Louis, Paris, France.
Sci Rep. 2023 Jul 11;13(1):11196. doi: 10.1038/s41598-023-37750-5.
Topically applied all-trans-retinoic acid (RA) is a gold-standard anti-aging molecule used in dermatology. As its cosmetic counterpart used in anti-aging, Retinol (ROL) is also a known metabolic precursor of RA. Despite this metabolic link, they haven't been compared exhaustively in vivo at a mechanistic level. Therefore, to highlight the effect of a topical application of both molecules on in vivo skin, we undertook a longitudinal 1-year study and performed an untargeted proteomic analysis to get a more holistic view on the underlying biological mechanisms of action. The generation of the temporal proteomics signatures of retinol and all-trans-retinoic acid reveals the impact of these molecules on biological functions related to the aging of skin. New biological functions impacted by retinoids were discovered: glycan metabolism and protein biosynthesis. In addition, the temporal analysis reveals highest modulations at early time points while the physical measures, such as epidermal thickening, was mostly observed at the latest time point, demonstrating a strong time lapse between molecular and morphological impacts. Finally, these global temporal signatures could be used to identify new cosmetic compounds of interest.
局部应用全反式视黄酸（RA）是皮肤科中使用的抗衰老金标准分子。作为其在抗衰老中的美容对应物，视黄醇（ROL）也是 RA 的已知代谢前体。尽管存在这种代谢联系，但它们在体内的机制水平上尚未进行详尽的比较。因此，为了强调这两种分子局部应用对体内皮肤的影响，我们进行了为期一年的纵向研究，并进行了非靶向蛋白质组学分析，以更全面地了解潜在的生物学作用机制。视黄醇和全反式视黄酸的时间蛋白质组学特征的产生揭示了这些分子对与皮肤衰老相关的生物学功能的影响。发现了受类视黄醇影响的新生物学功能：糖代谢和蛋白质生物合成。此外，时间分析显示早期时间点的调制最高，而表皮增厚等物理测量主要在最晚时间点观察到，表明分子和形态影响之间存在很强的时间滞后。最后，这些全局时间特征可用于鉴定新的感兴趣的化妆品化合物。
