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男性攀岩者的利手性、双侧性和指力不对称性。

Handedness, Bilateral, and Interdigit Strength Asymmetries in Male Climbers.

机构信息

Clinical Exercise and Rehabilitation Research Center, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom.

Lattice Training Ltd., Chesterfield, United Kingdom.

出版信息

Int J Sports Physiol Perform. 2023 Sep 7;18(12):1390-1397. doi: 10.1123/ijspp.2023-0030. Print 2023 Dec 1.

Abstract

PURPOSE

To determine whether there are bilateral and interdigit differences in the maximal force production of experienced climbers and whether these differences are mediated by ability level or preferred style of climbing.

METHODS

Thirty-six male climbers (age 30 [9.4] y) took part in a single-session trial to test their maximal force production on both hands. The tests included a one-arm maximal isometric finger flexor strength test (MIFS) and a one-arm individual MIFS. Bilateral differences were analyzed by strongest hand (defined as the hand that produced the highest MIFS value) and dominance (defined as the writing hand).

RESULTS

A pairwise t test found that MIFS was significantly greater for the strongest hand (mean difference = 4.1%, 95% CI, -0.052 to 0.029, P < .001), with handedness explaining 89% of the variation. A 2-way mixed-model analysis of variance determined that there were no interactions between preferred style (bouldering or sport climbing) and MIFS or between ability level (advanced or elite) and MIFS.

CONCLUSIONS

Climbers have significant finger flexor strength bilateral asymmetries between their strongest and weakest hand. Moreover, when dominance is controlled, this difference in strength is present, with the dominant hand producing more force. Neither preferred style of climbing nor the ability level of the climbers could explain these asymmetries. As such, practitioners should consider regularly monitoring unilateral strength, aiming to minimize the likelihood of large bilateral asymmetry occurring.

摘要

目的

确定经验丰富的攀岩者在最大力量产生方面是否存在双手和手指间的差异,以及这些差异是否受到能力水平或偏好的攀岩风格的影响。

方法

36 名男性攀岩者(年龄 30 [9.4]岁)参加了一次单试,以测试他们双手的最大力量产生能力。测试包括单手最大等长手指屈肌力量测试(MIFS)和单手个体 MIFS。通过最强手(定义为产生最高 MIFS 值的手)和优势手(定义为惯用手)分析双手差异。

结果

配对 t 检验发现,最强手的 MIFS 显著更高(平均差异=4.1%,95%置信区间,-0.052 至 0.029,P<0.001),手性解释了 89%的变异。2 因素混合模型方差分析确定,偏好的攀岩风格(抱石或运动攀岩)与 MIFS 之间或能力水平(高级或精英)与 MIFS 之间没有交互作用。

结论

攀岩者在最强手和最弱手之间存在显著的手指屈肌力量双侧不对称性。此外,当控制优势手时,这种力量差异仍然存在,优势手产生的力量更大。偏好的攀岩风格或攀岩者的能力水平都不能解释这些不对称性。因此,从业者应该考虑定期监测单侧力量,旨在最大程度地减少发生大的双侧不对称的可能性。

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