Department of Orthopaedics, Institute of Clinical Sciences, Sahlgrenska Academy, University of Gothenburg, Gothenburg, Sweden.
Department of Health and Rehabilitation, Institute of Neuroscience and Physiology, Sahgrenska Academy, University of Gothenburg, Gothenburg, Sweden.
Int J Sports Physiol Perform. 2024 Feb 1;19(3):290-298. doi: 10.1123/ijspp.2023-0129. Print 2024 Mar 1.
To determine the criterion validity and test-retest reliability of isometric finger-strength testing in 6 differentiated grip techniques for the assessment of bouldering ability among male climbers.
We recruited participants at climbing gyms in Sweden and through online advertisements. We included climbers over 15 years of age with a minimum bouldering performance level of 17 International Rock Climbing and Research Association (IRCRA) for men and 15 IRCRA for women. We tested unilateral, maximal isometric peak finger strength in the front 3 drag, half crimp, closed crimp, 35 sloper, 45 × 90-mm, and 90 × 90-mm pinch through maximal force deloaded of a force plate. We analyzed criterion validity, test-retest reliability, and capacity to determine bouldering performance ability using a stepwise multivariable regression model.
Women were excluded from the analysis due to insufficient sample size (n = 16). Thirty-two male participants were included in the primary analysis. The median (interquartile range) age in the advanced and elite group was 27 (25; 35) and 23 (22; 32) years, respectively. The half crimp for the participants' weak and strong hand displayed the highest ability to determine bouldering grade performance, explaining 48% to 58% of the variance. In the stepwise regression, maximal strength in the half crimp and the front 3 drag collectively explained 66% of the variance for performance.
Strength in the half crimp proved the most important performance indicator. The results of this study provide a reliable and valid framework for maximal isometric peak finger-strength testing in advanced and elite male boulderers.
确定 6 种不同握法的等长手指力量测试在评估男性攀岩者抱石能力方面的标准效度和重测信度。
我们在瑞典的攀岩馆和网上广告中招募参与者。我们纳入了年龄在 15 岁以上、男性最低抱石表现水平为 17 级国际攀岩与研究协会（IRCRA）、女性为 15 级 IRCRA 的攀岩者。我们通过最大力量卸载力板测试了单侧、最大等长峰值手指力量，测试握法包括前 3 指抓握、半握、闭握、35 号指套、45×90 毫米和 90×90 毫米指捏。我们使用逐步多元回归模型分析了标准效度、重测信度和确定抱石表现能力的能力。
由于样本量不足（n=16），女性被排除在分析之外。32 名男性参与者被纳入主要分析。高级组和精英组的中位数（四分位距）年龄分别为 27（25；35）和 23（22；32）岁。参与者弱手和强手的半握对确定抱石等级表现的能力最高，解释了 48%至 58%的方差。在逐步回归中，半握和前 3 指抓握的最大力量共同解释了 66%的表现方差。
半握的力量被证明是最重要的表现指标。本研究结果为高级和精英男性抱石运动员的最大等长峰值手指力量测试提供了可靠和有效的框架。
