Baszczowski Michał, Dolina Aleksandra, Zawadka Magdalena, Ginszt Michał, Czarnecki Adam, Ginszt Agata, Gawda Piotr
Department of Sports Medicine, Medical University of Lublin, 20-093 Lublin, Poland.
Department of Rehabilitation and Physiotherapy, Medical University of Lublin, 20-093 Lublin, Poland.
Medicina (Kaunas). 2024 Nov 27;60(12):1956. doi: 10.3390/medicina60121956.
: Sport climbing's popularity has grown with its inclusion in the Olympics and increased accessibility. Understanding the relationship between hand dominance, grip strength, endurance, and the involvement of masticatory and neck muscles can provide valuable insights into the neuromuscular adaptations specific to sport climbing, potentially aiding performance optimization and injury prevention in intermediate and advanced climbers. This study analyzes if the dominant hand has greater isometric endurance and isometric manual grip strength parameters than the non-dominant one and examines its relation to the masticatory and neck muscles in intermediate and advanced sport climbers. : The study was conducted on 41 participants who were divided into two groups according to the IRCRA classification. A level 2 (Lv2) group consisting of 18 climbers and a level 3 (Lv3) group consisting of 23 climbers were identified. First, isometric manual grip strength and isometric endurance were measured using a dynamometer following the protocol of the first three and the last three repetitions (PC3) and the first six and the last six repetitions (PC6). Next, masticatory and neck muscle activity was assessed using surface electromyography, following the same protocol. : Greater activity of the temporalis muscle was observed on the non-dominant side in the advanced climber's group ( = 0.045). The decrease in bioelectric activity was lower on the dominant side in group Lv3 compared to Lv2. In intermediate climbers, the bioelectrical activity of the masseter muscles in PC3 was greater on the non-dominant side, and in PC6, was greater on the dominant side. The digastric muscles showed a greater decrease in isometric endurance on the non-dominant side. : Advanced climbers demonstrated greater isometric endurance and isometric manual grip strength parameters in both dominant and non-dominant hands compared to intermediate climbers. The masticatory muscles exhibited higher electromyographic activity on the non-dominant side in the masseter muscles and higher electromyographic activity on the dominant side in the temporalis muscles and digastric muscles.
随着攀岩被纳入奥运会以及其可及性的提高，竞技攀岩越来越受欢迎。了解手的优势、握力、耐力以及咀嚼肌和颈部肌肉的参与情况之间的关系，可以为竞技攀岩特有的神经肌肉适应提供有价值的见解，这可能有助于中级和高级攀岩者优化表现并预防受伤。本研究分析优势手的等长耐力和等长手动握力参数是否比非优势手更大，并研究其与中级和高级竞技攀岩者咀嚼肌和颈部肌肉的关系。
该研究对41名参与者进行，这些参与者根据IRCRA分类被分为两组。确定了一个由18名攀岩者组成的2级（Lv2）组和一个由23名攀岩者组成的3级（Lv3）组。首先，按照前三组和后三组重复（PC3）以及前六组和后六组重复（PC6）的方案，使用测力计测量等长手动握力和等长耐力。接下来，按照相同方案，使用表面肌电图评估咀嚼肌和颈部肌肉的活动。
在高级攀岩者组中，观察到颞肌在非优势侧的活动更强（P = 0.045）。与Lv2组相比，Lv3组优势侧的生物电活动下降幅度更小。在中级攀岩者中，咬肌在PC3时非优势侧的生物电活动更强，而在PC6时优势侧的生物电活动更强。二腹肌在非优势侧的等长耐力下降幅度更大。
与中级攀岩者相比，高级攀岩者在优势手和非优势手的等长耐力和等长手动握力参数方面都表现得更强。咀嚼肌在咬肌的非优势侧表现出更高的肌电图活动，在颞肌和二腹肌的优势侧表现出更高的肌电图活动。
