School of Health Sciences, University of Salford, Manchester, United Kingdom.
Lattice Training Ltd., Chesterfield, United Kingdom ; and.
J Strength Cond Res. 2022 Aug 1;36(8):2277-2282. doi: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000003548. Epub 2020 Mar 4.
Torr, O, Randall, T, Knowles, R, Giles, D, and Atkins, S. The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climbers' isometric finger strength. J Strength Cond Res 36(8): 2277-2282, 2022-Isometric strength of the finger flexors is considered to be one of the main physical determinants of sport rock climbing performance. We set out to determine the test-retest reliability and criterion validity of a low resource maximal isometric finger strength (MIFS) testing protocol that uses a pulley system to add or remove weight to/from a climber's body. To determine test-retest reliability, 15 subjects' MIFS was assessed on 2 occasions, separated by a minimum of 48 hours. Body mass and maximum load were recorded on both occasions. Intra-class correlation coefficients (ICCs) between visits for all variables were very good (ICC > 0.91), with small bias and effect sizes-particularly when expressed as a percentage of body mass (ICC = 0.98, 95% confidence interval 0.93-0.99). To determine the criterion validity of MIFS and climbing ability, data of 229 intermediate to higher elite climbers were compared. Pearson's product moment correlations demonstrated good agreement, again particularly between total load when expressed as a percentage of body mass and climbing performance ( r = 0.421-0.503). The results illustrate the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of MIFS in intermediate to height elite climbers from an ecologically valid, climbing specific test that only requires equipment found at most climbing walls. This low resource test protocol for the assessment of isometric finger strength has wide-reaching utility, for instance when assessing strength before and after a training intervention or when prescribing load intensities for exercises aimed at improving maximal finger strength.
托尔、奥、兰德尔、T、诺尔斯、R、贾尔斯、D 和阿特金斯、S. 一种评估运动攀岩者等长手指力量的方法的可靠性和有效性。J 力量与调理研究 36(8)：2277-2282，2022-手指屈肌的等长力量被认为是运动攀岩表现的主要物理决定因素之一。我们旨在确定一种使用滑轮系统向/从攀岩者身体添加或去除重量的低资源最大等长手指力量 (MIFS) 测试方案的测试-再测试可靠性和标准有效性。为了确定测试-再测试的可靠性，15 名受试者的 MIFS 在两次访问中进行了评估，两次访问之间至少相隔 48 小时。在两次访问中记录了体重和最大负荷。所有变量的组内相关系数 (ICC) 都非常好 (ICC > 0.91)，偏差和效应大小都很小-特别是当以体重的百分比表示时 (ICC = 0.98，95%置信区间 0.93-0.99)。为了确定 MIFS 和攀岩能力的标准有效性，比较了 229 名中级到高级精英攀岩者的数据。皮尔逊积矩相关表明了良好的一致性，尤其是当以体重的百分比表示时，总负荷与攀爬表现之间的一致性 (r = 0.421-0.503)。结果表明，从中等到高度精英攀岩者中，从生态有效的、特定于攀岩的测试中确定 MIFS 的简单测试具有敏感性，该测试仅需要大多数攀岩墙都有的设备。这种用于评估等长手指力量的低资源测试方案具有广泛的用途，例如在评估训练干预前后的力量或在为旨在提高最大手指力量的练习规定负荷强度时。
