Zosimidou Sofia S, Vouvoudi Evangelia C, Tsagkalias Ioannis S, Lykidou Smaro S, Nikolaidis Nikolaos F
Laboratory of Polymers and Dyes Chemistry and Technology, Department of Chemistry, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, GR-54124 Thessaloniki, Greece.
Antioxidants (Basel). 2023 Oct 4;12(10):1829. doi: 10.3390/antiox12101829.
An industry listed as one of the largest globally is the cosmetic industry. In recent years, this industry has shown growing interest in the application of natural ingredients providing advanced properties to cosmetic creams such as moisturizing, antioxidant, sun-protecting and antimicrobial effects. In this context, the present study concerns the production of cosmetic emulsions containing oil obtained via the methods of extraction, hydro-distillation and maceration using sunflower oil as the carrier oil. Firstly, an IR-ATR analysis was performed showing that the oils prepared were close to those commercially obtained. Then, the stability of the emulsions was tested over a time period of four months through measuring their pH and viscosity values with positive outcomes, and their antioxidant ability was also measured using the DPPH method. The latter one showed that oil greatly improves the antioxidant capacity. Moreover, based on the fact that sea buckthorn contains carotenoids, the SPF value of the emulsions was determined. The results showed that the addition of oil to the emulsions gave higher absorption in UV-Vis, thus higher SPF values. Py-GC/MS analysis was used to identify decomposition compounds in the produced oils. Among those, valuable compounds such as -6, -7 and -9 fatty acids and many aldehydes were found by the decomposition of the oils.
化妆品行业是全球最大的行业之一。近年来，该行业对天然成分在化妆品面霜中的应用表现出越来越浓厚的兴趣，这些天然成分具有保湿、抗氧化、防晒和抗菌等先进特性。在此背景下，本研究涉及使用向日葵油作为载体油，通过萃取、水蒸馏和浸渍法获得的油制备化妆品乳液。首先，进行了红外衰减全反射（IR-ATR）分析，结果表明所制备的油与市售油相近。然后，通过测量乳液的pH值和粘度，对乳液的稳定性进行了四个月的测试，结果良好，并且还使用二苯基苦味酰基自由基（DPPH）法测量了它们的抗氧化能力。后者表明该油极大地提高了抗氧化能力。此外，基于沙棘含有类胡萝卜素这一事实，测定了乳液的防晒系数（SPF）值。结果表明，向乳液中添加该油在紫外可见光谱中有更高的吸收，因此具有更高的SPF值。采用热解气相色谱/质谱（Py-GC/MS）分析来鉴定所生产的油中的分解化合物。在这些化合物中，通过油的分解发现了诸如-6、-7和-9脂肪酸以及许多醛等有价值的化合物。
