College of Biotechnology, Tianjin University of Science & Technology, Tianjin, China.
Key Laboratory of Industrial Fermentation Microbiology, Ministry of Education, Tianjin University of Science & Technology, Tianjin, China.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Apr;23(4):1351-1359. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16092. Epub 2023 Nov 21.
The human skin microbiome and lipidome are essential for skin homeostasis and barrier function, and have become a focus in both dermatological and cosmetic fields. However, the influence of surfactants commonly used in cosmetic products on the skin resident microbiome and lipidome remains poorly characterized.
We conducted self-control experiments to systematically study the effects of surfactant (sodium lauroyl sarcosinate [SLS]) on facial skin. Wrinkles, pores, porphyrins, and superficial lipids were examined to evaluate the biophysical state of skin. Quantitative real-time PCR was used to detect the numbers of bacteria and fungi. The diversity and structure of prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiomes were assessed using 16S rDNA and ITS amplicon sequencing, respectively. Moreover, 22 lipids were identified to evaluate lipidome variations. SPSS software was used for statistical analysis.
SLS in facial cleanser did not extensively influence skin biophysical parameters, but caused a decrease in porphyrin. After using the SLS-added facial cleanser for 3 weeks, the alpha diversity of the prokaryotic microbial community decreased significantly, while the eukaryotic microbial community showed a continuous downward trend but no statistically significant. A shift in the structure of prokaryotic microbiome was observed as a result of SLS exposure, mainly reflected by the increase in Acinetobacter, Escherichia-Shigella, Streptococcus, and Ralstonia, while the SLS had little effect on the structure of the eukaryotic microbiome. Furthermore, SLS exposure had a great impact on skin lipidome, mainly manifested by the increase of phosphatidylglycerol (PG) and phosphatidylcholine (PC), and the decrease of ceramides. Spearman's correlations analysis showed that Escherichia-Shigella, Pseudomonas, and Acinetobacter are positively correlated with PG and PC; however, the correlation is not statistically significant.
In this study, we found the SLS in facial cleanser primarily affected lipidome and the prokaryotic microbiome of facial skin. These findings are useful for reminding us to be vigilant about the ingredients in personal care products, even the common ingredients, and designing effective formulations for repairing ecological balance of skin.
人体皮肤微生物组和脂质组对于皮肤的稳态和屏障功能至关重要,已成为皮肤科和化妆品领域的研究热点。然而,化妆品中常用的表面活性剂对皮肤常驻微生物组和脂质组的影响仍知之甚少。
我们进行了自身对照实验,系统研究了表面活性剂(月桂酰肌氨酸钠[SLS])对面部皮肤的影响。通过检测皱纹、毛孔、卟啉和浅层脂质来评估皮肤的生物物理状态。采用定量实时 PCR 检测细菌和真菌的数量。通过 16S rDNA 和 ITS 扩增子测序分别评估原核和真核微生物组的多样性和结构。此外,鉴定了 22 种脂质以评估脂质组的变化。使用 SPSS 软件进行统计分析。
洗面奶中的 SLS 并没有广泛影响皮肤的生物物理参数,但会导致卟啉减少。使用含 SLS 的洗面奶 3 周后,原核微生物群落的 alpha 多样性显著下降,而真核微生物群落呈持续下降趋势,但无统计学意义。由于 SLS 的暴露,观察到原核微生物组的结构发生了变化,主要表现为不动杆菌属、大肠埃希菌-志贺氏菌属、链球菌属和罗尔斯通氏菌属的增加,而 SLS 对真核微生物组的结构影响较小。此外,SLS 暴露对皮肤脂质组有很大影响,主要表现为磷脂酰甘油(PG)和磷脂酰胆碱(PC)增加,神经酰胺减少。Spearman 相关性分析显示,大肠埃希菌-志贺氏菌属、假单胞菌属和不动杆菌属与 PG 和 PC 呈正相关;然而,这种相关性没有统计学意义。
在这项研究中,我们发现洗面奶中的 SLS 主要影响面部皮肤的脂质组和原核微生物组。这些发现有助于提醒我们警惕个人护理产品中的成分,即使是常见成分,并设计有效的配方来修复皮肤的生态平衡。