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熟练攀岩者在室内抱石运动中具有卓越记忆力的潜在机制。

Mechanisms underlying superior memory of skilled climbers in indoor bouldering.

机构信息

Institute of Exercise Training and Sport Informatics, German Sport University Cologne, Cologne, Germany.

Institut National de l´Activité Physique et des Sports, Ministry of Sport, Luxembourg.

出版信息

J Sports Sci. 2023 Oct;41(20):1837-1844. doi: 10.1080/02640414.2023.2300569. Epub 2024 Jan 2.

Abstract

INTRODUCTION

Bouldering is an Olympic climbing discipline that encompasses short climbing sequences, referred to as boulders, set up on low-height bouldering walls. Memory plays a critical role in bouldering, as it allows climbers to develop climbing strategies, to mentally rehearse climbing movements, and to recall climbing holds of boulders. This study extends previous research on memory in climbing and bouldering with the purpose to elucidate potential mechanisms underlying superior memory abilities of skilled climbers.

METHODS

Sixty climbers with intermediate ( = 20), advanced ( = 20), or elite ( = 20) skill levels were tasked to memorise the climbing holds and movements of a boulder, set up on a spray wall and demonstrated by a bouldering expert.

RESULTS

Findings revealed a positive relation between the participants' bouldering skills and sport-specific movement knowledge and both, the number of climbing holds and movements they were able to memorise following a two-minute rehearsal period.

CONCLUSION

Consistent with previous research, bouldering expertise is positively associated with the ability to memorise domain-specific information. Superior memory abilities among skilled climbers appear to be associated with climbing-specific movement knowledge, coupled with better mental visualisation and increased attentional focus towards functional aspects of boulders.

摘要

简介

抱石是奥林匹克攀岩运动的一个分支,包含在低高度抱石墙上设置的短攀岩序列,称为抱石。记忆在抱石中起着至关重要的作用,因为它使攀岩者能够制定攀岩策略,在心理上反复练习攀岩动作,并回忆起抱石的攀岩握把。这项研究扩展了之前关于攀岩和抱石记忆的研究,旨在阐明熟练攀岩者卓越记忆能力的潜在机制。

方法

60 名具有中级(= 20)、高级(= 20)或精英(= 20)技能水平的攀岩者被要求记住在喷雾墙上设置的抱石的攀岩握把和动作,由一位抱石专家演示。

结果

研究结果表明,参与者的抱石技能与特定于运动的动作知识之间存在正相关关系,并且在经过两分钟的排练后,他们能够记住的攀岩握把和动作数量也存在正相关关系。

结论

与先前的研究一致,抱石专业技能与记忆特定于领域的信息的能力呈正相关。熟练攀岩者的卓越记忆能力似乎与攀岩特定的动作知识有关,同时还与更好的心理可视化以及对抱石功能方面的注意力提高有关。

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