Medernach Jerry Prosper, Sanchez Xavier, Henz Julian, Memmert Daniel
Institute of Exercise Training and Sport Informatics, German Sport University Cologne, Germany; Institut National de l'Activité Physique et des Sports, Luxembourg.
CIAMS, Université d'Orléans, Orléans, France; CIAMS, Université Paris-Saclay, Orsay, France; SAPRéM, Université d'Orléans, Orléans, France.
Psychol Sport Exerc. 2024 Jul;73:102654. doi: 10.1016/j.psychsport.2024.102654. Epub 2024 May 11.
In the Olympic climbing discipline of bouldering, climbers can preview boulders before actually climbing them. Whilst such pre-climbing route previewing is considered as central to subsequent climbing performance, research on cognitive-behavioural processes during the preparatory phase in the modality of bouldering is lacking. The present study aimed at extending existing findings on neural efficiency processes associated with advanced skill level during motor activity preparation by examining cognitive-behavioural processes during the previewing of boulders.
Intermediate (n = 20), advanced (n = 20), and elite (n = 20) climbers were asked to preview first, and then attempt two boulders of different difficulty levels (boulder 1: advanced difficulty; boulder 2: elite difficulty). During previewing, climbers' gaze behaviour was gathered using a portable eye-tracker.
Linear regression revealed for both boulders a significant relation between participants' skill levels and both preview duration and number of scans during previewing. Elite climbers more commonly used a superficial scan path than advanced and intermediate climbers. In the more difficult boulder, both elite and advanced climbers showed longer preview durations, performed more scans, and applied less often a superficial scan path than in the easier boulder.
Findings revealed that cognitive-behavioural processes during route previewing are associated with climbing expertise and boulder difficulty. Superior domain-specific cognitive proficiency seems to account for the expertise-processing-paradigm in boulder previewing, contributing to faster and more conscious acquisition of perceptual cues, more efficient visual search strategies, and better identification of representative patterns among experts.
在奥运会攀岩项目中的抱石比赛里,攀岩者在实际攀爬巨石之前可以先预览巨石。虽然这种攀爬前的路线预览被认为是后续攀爬表现的关键,但在抱石模式的准备阶段,关于认知行为过程的研究却很缺乏。本研究旨在通过检查抱石预览期间的认知行为过程,扩展现有关于运动活动准备过程中与高级技能水平相关的神经效率过程的研究结果。
招募了中级(n = 20)、高级(n = 20)和精英级(n = 20)的攀岩者,要求他们先进行预览,然后尝试两块不同难度级别的巨石(巨石1:高级难度;巨石2:精英难度)。在预览过程中,使用便携式眼动仪收集攀岩者的注视行为。
线性回归显示,对于两块巨石,参与者的技能水平与预览持续时间以及预览期间的扫描次数之间均存在显著关系。与高级和中级攀岩者相比,精英攀岩者更常使用表面扫描路径。在难度更大的巨石上,精英和高级攀岩者的预览持续时间更长,扫描次数更多,并且与较容易的巨石相比,较少使用表面扫描路径。
研究结果表明,路线预览期间的认知行为过程与攀岩专业知识和巨石难度有关。卓越的特定领域认知能力似乎可以解释抱石预览中的专业知识处理模式,有助于更快、更有意识地获取感知线索,采用更有效的视觉搜索策略,并更好地识别专家中的代表性模式。