攀岩中的具身规划：预先规划如何影响运动执行。
Embodied planning in climbing: how pre-planning informs motor execution.
作者信息
Luis-Del Campo Vicente, Morenas Martín Jesús, Musculus Lisa, Raab Markus
机构信息
Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Extremadura, Cáceres, Spain.
Institute of Psychology, Department of Performance Psychology, German Sport University Cologne, Cologne, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany.
出版信息
Front Psychol. 2024 Feb 19;15:1337878. doi: 10.3389/fpsyg.2024.1337878. eCollection 2024.
INTRODUCTION
The aim of the study is to address embodied planning in climbing. Embodied planning was conceptualized as the interaction between perceptual-cognitive pre-planning and motor execution.
METHODS
In an experimental study, 18 climbers were asked to pre-plan a climbing route and to perform the route afterward. During pre-planning, the visual search pattern of climbers was captured using a portable eye tracker. After previewing, they were invited to climb the wall.
RESULTS
Results revealed that holds looked at during pre-planning were used twice as much during route execution than those not looked at. The duration of fixations was longer for holds used than those not used during route execution. The experience of climbers (training years) correlated with visual strategies and climbing performance, such that experienced participants climbed faster and fixated at the holds not used for a shorter time.
DISCUSSION
The visual behaviors of climbers were influenced by their past sensorimotor experiences during route previewing, impacting subsequent climbing performance.
引言
本研究的目的是探讨攀岩中的具身规划。具身规划被概念化为感知-认知预规划与运动执行之间的相互作用。
方法
在一项实验研究中，18名攀岩者被要求预先规划一条攀岩路线，然后执行该路线。在预规划期间，使用便携式眼动仪捕捉攀岩者的视觉搜索模式。预览之后，邀请他们攀爬墙壁。
结果
结果显示，预规划期间看过的支撑点在路线执行期间的使用频率是未看过的支撑点的两倍。路线执行期间使用的支撑点的注视持续时间比未使用的支撑点更长。攀岩者的经验（训练年限）与视觉策略和攀岩表现相关，经验丰富的参与者攀爬速度更快，对未使用的支撑点的注视时间更短。
讨论
攀岩者的视觉行为在路线预览期间受到其过去感觉运动经验的影响，从而影响后续的攀岩表现。
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