Vigouroux Laurent, Devise Marine
ISM (Institute of Movement Sciences), CNRS, Aix-Marseille University, 13288 Marseille, France.
Bioengineering (Basel). 2024 Jan 17;11(1):85. doi: 10.3390/bioengineering11010085.
Sport climbing performance is highly related to upper limb strength and endurance. Although finger-specific methods are widely analyzed in the literature, no study has yet quantified the effects of arm-specific training. This study aims to compare the effects of three types of training involving different muscle contraction regimens on climbers' pull-up capabilities. Thirty advanced to high-elite climbers were randomly divided into four groups: eccentric (ECC; = 8), isometric (ISO; = 7), plyometric (PLYO; = 6), and no specific training (CTRL; = 9), and they participated in a 5-week training, twice a week, focusing on pull-ups on hangboard. Pre- and post-training assessments were conducted using a force-sensing hangboard, analyzing force, velocity, power, and muscle work during three pull-up exercises: pull-ups at body weight under different conditions, incremental weighted pull-ups, and an exhaustion test. The CTRL group showed no change. Maximum strength improved in all three training groups (from +2.2 ± 3.6% to +5.0 ± 2.4%; < 0.001); velocity variables enhanced in the ECC and PLYO groups (from +5.7 ± 7.4 to +28.7 ± 42%; < 0.05), resulting in greater power; amplitude increased in the ECC group; and muscle work increased in the PLYO group (+21.9 ± 16.6%; = 0.015). A 5-week training period effectively enhanced arm performance, but outcomes were influenced by the chosen muscle contraction regimens and initial individual characteristics.
竞技攀岩表现与上肢力量和耐力高度相关。尽管文献中对针对手指的方法进行了广泛分析,但尚无研究对针对手臂的训练效果进行量化。本研究旨在比较三种涉及不同肌肉收缩方式的训练对攀岩者引体向上能力的影响。30名进阶至高精英水平的攀岩者被随机分为四组:离心收缩组(ECC;n = 8)、等长收缩组(ISO;n = 7)、增强式训练组(PLYO;n = 6)和无特定训练组(CTRL;n = 9),他们参加了为期5周、每周两次的训练,重点是在挂片上进行引体向上练习。训练前后使用力感应挂片进行评估,分析三种引体向上练习过程中的力、速度、功率和肌肉功:不同条件下的体重引体向上、递增负重引体向上和疲劳测试。CTRL组无变化。所有三个训练组的最大力量均有所提高(从+2.2±3.6%提高到+5.0±2.4%;P < 0.001);ECC组和PLYO组的速度变量有所增强(从+5.7±7.4提高到+28.7±42%;P < 0.05),从而产生更大的功率;ECC组的幅度增加;PLYO组的肌肉功增加(+21.9±16.6%;P = 0.015)。为期5周的训练期有效提高了手臂表现,但结果受所选肌肉收缩方式和个体初始特征的影响。