de la Cruz Violeta Muñoz, Carranza Víctor Rodrigo, González Ravé José María
Sports Training Lab: Sports Performance Research Group (GIRD) University of Castilla-La Mancha, Toledo, Spain.
Biol Sport. 2024 Mar;41(2):131-137. doi: 10.5114/biolsport.2024.131824. Epub 2023 Oct 16.
Speed climbing will be a new discipline in Paris 2024. The physical requirements of speed climbing are different from the other climbing modalities due to the short event time requiring higher level of strength and power. These parameters have been measured through the Force-Velocity (F-V) profile in different climbing disciplines. However, there are no known results evaluating different speed climbing abilities to establish whether F-V relationship is a determining factor between performance levels. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the upper and lower limbs F-V profile in different speed climbing abilities considering sex. Twenty-six speed climbers were divided into two groups based on their level of performance: international level (men n = 7 and women n = 2) and national level (men n = 8 and women n = 7). Participants performed pull-ups and squat incremental tests and F-V profile variables [Maximum theorical values of force (F0), velocity (V0) and power (P)], one-repetition maximum value (1RM) and %1RM where peak power was expressed were collected using a linear encoder. There were significant differences in F, relative force, %1RM where peak power was expressed, and 1RM in pull-ups (p < 0.05) between groups. However, there were not significant differences between groups in squat variables. No significant sex differences were found in any variable. There were moderate-strong correlations between running time and 1RM (pull-ups and squat), F and FV-slope (pull-ups) (p < 0.05) analyzed in the whole group. In conclusion, F and 1RM in pull-ups were significantly higher in international climbers. Therefore, national climbers should focus their training on improving force by training with heavy loads. Additionally, squat F-V profile variables do not seem to be as important as in the pull-up for performance.
速度攀岩将成为2024年巴黎奥运会的一项新比赛项目。由于速度攀岩比赛时间短，需要更高水平的力量和爆发力，其对体能的要求与其他攀岩形式不同。这些参数已通过不同攀岩项目的力-速度（F-V）曲线进行了测量。然而，目前尚无评估不同速度攀岩能力以确定F-V关系是否是成绩水平决定因素的已知结果。本研究的目的是考虑性别因素，评估不同速度攀岩能力下上下肢的F-V曲线。26名速度攀岩者根据其成绩水平分为两组：国际水平组（男性n = 7，女性n = 2）和国家水平组（男性n = 8，女性n = 7）。参与者进行了引体向上和深蹲递增测试，并使用线性编码器收集了F-V曲线变量[力（F0）、速度（V0）和功率（P）的最大理论值]、一次重复最大值（1RM）以及达到最大功率时的1RM百分比。两组之间在引体向上的F、相对力量、达到最大功率时的1RM百分比和1RM方面存在显著差异（p < 0.05）。然而，两组在深蹲变量方面没有显著差异。在任何变量中均未发现显著的性别差异。在整个组中分析发现，跑步时间与1RM（引体向上和深蹲）、F以及F-V斜率（引体向上）之间存在中等强度的相关性（p < 0.05）。总之，国际水平的攀岩者在引体向上中的F和1RM显著更高。因此，国家水平的攀岩者应通过重负荷训练将训练重点放在提高力量上。此外，深蹲的F-V曲线变量对于成绩似乎不如引体向上那样重要。
