Saeterbakken Atle Hole, Bratland Erik, Andersen Vidar, Stien Nicolay
Department of Sport Food and Natural Sciences, Faculty of Education, Arts, and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.
Front Physiol. 2024 Oct 10;15:1461820. doi: 10.3389/fphys.2024.1461820. eCollection 2024.
The aim of the study was to examine the effects of a 5-week dynamic finger flexor strength training program on bouldering performance and climbing-specific strength tests. Advanced to elite level boulderers (n = 31) were randomized to a dynamic finger strength training group (DFS) or a control group (CON). The DFS training program consisted of 3 weekly sessions (3-5 sets, 4-10 repetitions per session). Both groups continued bouldering training as usual throughout the intervention period. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal dynamic finger strength, isometric finger strength (peak and average force), and rate of force development (RFD). The DFS demonstrated greater improvement in dynamic finger strength (11.5%, 3.9 kg) than the CON (5.3%, 1.7 kg; = 0.075, ES = 0.90), but there were no differences between the groups in 1RM ( = 0.075, ES = 0.67), bouldering performance ( = 0.39, ES = 0.35), isometric finger strength ( = 0.42-0.56, ES = 0.20-0.22) or RFD ( = 0.30, ES = 0.46). The DFS improved dynamic ( < 0.01, ES = 1.83) and isometric peak and average ( < 0.01, ES = 0.98, and < 0.01, ES = 0.75, respectively) finger strength, while the CON only increased dynamic finger strength ( < 0.05, ES = 0.58). None of groups improved bouldering performance or RFD ( = 0.07-0.58). In conclusion, 5 weeks of DFS training improving dynamic strength to a greater extent than bouldering alone in addition to improving isometric finger strength among advanced boulderers. Isolated bouldering improved dynamic finger flexor strength, but importantly, increased finger strength (dynamic or isometric) did not improve bouldering performance.
本研究的目的是检验为期5周的动态手指屈肌力量训练计划对抱石成绩和特定于攀岩的力量测试的影响。将进阶至精英水平的抱石者（n = 31）随机分为动态手指力量训练组（DFS）或对照组（CON）。DFS训练计划包括每周3次训练（每次3 - 5组，每组4 - 10次重复）。在整个干预期内，两组均照常进行抱石训练。干预前后的测量指标包括抱石成绩、最大动态手指力量、等长手指力量（峰值和平均力量）以及力量发展速率（RFD）。DFS组在动态手指力量方面的改善程度（11.5%，3.9千克）大于CON组（5.3%，1.7千克；p = 0.075，效应量 = 0.90），但两组在1RM（p = 0.075，效应量 = 0.67）、抱石成绩（p = 0.39，效应量 = 0.35）、等长手指力量（p = 0.42 - 0.56，效应量 = 0.20 - 0.22）或RFD（p = 0.30，效应量 = 0.46）方面无差异。DFS组改善了动态（p < 0.01，效应量 = 1.83）以及等长峰值和平均（分别为p < 0.01，效应量 = 0.98和p < 0.01，效应量 = 0.75）手指力量，而CON组仅增加了动态手指力量（p < 小0.05，效应量 = 0.58）。两组均未改善抱石成绩或RFD（p = 0.07 - 0.58）。总之，5周的DFS训练在进阶抱石者中除了改善等长手指力量外，在更大程度上提高了动态力量。单独进行抱石训练改善了动态手指屈肌力量，但重要的是，手指力量（动态或等长）的增加并未改善抱石成绩。
