ISM, Aix-Marseille University, CNRS, Marseille, France.
GIPSA, University Grenoble Alpes, CNRS, Saint Martin d'Hères, France.
PeerJ. 2023 Sep 26;11:e15886. doi: 10.7717/peerj.15886. eCollection 2023.
This study explored the capabilities of sport climbers to pull up with arms. The methodology aimed at assessing (i) concentric capabilities of arm muscles, (ii) body coordination skills (iii) characteristics of energy storage and (iv) capabilities to resist fatigue. Twenty-eight climbers were tested and the force exerted was recorded during three pull-up exercises: jump tests (with or without coordination, or preceded by an eccentric phase), incrementally weighted pull-ups and maximum number of pull-ups. Force, velocity, muscle power and muscle work were analysed using ANOVA with post-hoc tests and principal component analysis. Correlations with climbing level were also studied. Overall, jump test results showed that body coordination and stretch-shortening cycle phenomena contributed significantly to performance but only the body coordination was related to the climber's grade level. Muscle work and maximum number of pull-ups are correlated with climbing level which showed that the capacity to resist fatigue is another crucial capability of climbers arms. The development of force capacities appeared crucial for performing whereas the velocity capabilities seemed to originate from the climber's own characteristics/style without correlating with climbing performance. Our study provides the basis for evaluating these parameters in order to help trainers in the diagnosis process and training follow-up.
本研究探索了竞技攀岩者的手臂提拉能力。该方法旨在评估（i）手臂肌肉的向心能力，（ii）身体协调技能，（iii）储能特征，以及（iv）抵抗疲劳的能力。对 28 名攀岩者进行了测试，并在三种引体向上练习中记录了施加的力：跳跃测试（有或没有协调，或在离心阶段之前）、递增重量引体向上和最大引体向上次数。使用方差分析和事后检验以及主成分分析对力、速度、肌肉力量和肌肉做功进行了分析。还研究了与攀岩水平的相关性。总体而言，跳跃测试结果表明，身体协调和弹性收缩-缩短循环现象对表现有显著贡献，但只有身体协调与攀岩者的等级水平有关。肌肉做功和最大引体向上次数与攀岩水平相关，这表明抵抗疲劳的能力是攀岩者手臂的另一个关键能力。力量能力的发展似乎对表现至关重要，而速度能力似乎源于攀岩者自身的特点/风格，与攀岩表现无关。我们的研究为评估这些参数提供了基础，以帮助教练在诊断过程和训练跟踪中。
