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蓝光防护因子:一种评估化妆品对中国人群蓝光诱导皮肤损伤防护效果的方法。

Blue light protection factor: a method to assess the protective efficacy of cosmetics against blue light-induced skin damage in the Chinese population.

作者信息

Zhang Rui, Pu Weilin, Zhang Xinyuan, Di Ye, Xu Jing, Zhu Meiyan, Tan Yimei, Liu Wei, Krutmann Jean, Wang Jiucun, Ma Yanyun

机构信息

Human Phenome Institute, Fudan University, Shanghai, China.

Department of Skin and Cosmetic Research, Shanghai Skin Disease Hospital, Shanghai, China.

出版信息

Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2024 Apr;23(4):711-718. doi: 10.1007/s43630-024-00546-1. Epub 2024 Mar 2.

DOI:10.1007/s43630-024-00546-1
PMID:38430370
Abstract

BACKGROUND

Previous studies have shown that visible light (VL), especially blue light (BL), could cause significant skin damage. With the emergence of VL protection products, a harmonization of light protection methods has been proposed, but it has not been widely applied in the Chinese population.

OBJECTIVE

Based on this framework, we propose an accurate and simplified method to evaluate the efficacy of BL photoprotection for the Chinese population.

METHODS

All subjects (n = 30) were irradiated daily using a blue LED light for four consecutive days. Each irradiation dose was 3/4 MPPD (minimum persistent pigmentation darkening). The skin pigmentation parameters, including L, M, and ITA°, were recorded. We proposed the blue light protection factor (BPF) metric based on the skin pigmentation parameters to evaluate the anti-blue light efficacies of different products.

RESULTS

We found that the level of pigmentation rose progressively and linearly as blue light exposure increased. We proposed a metric, BPF, to reflect the anti-blue light efficacy of products based on the linear changes in skin pigment characteristics following daily BL exposure. Moreover, we discovered that the BPF metric could clearly distinguish the anti-blue light efficacies between two products and the control group, suggesting that BPF is an efficient and simple-to-use metric for anti-blue light evaluation.

CONCLUSION

Our study proposed an accurate and simplified method with an easy-to-use metric, BPF, to accurately characterize the anti-blue light efficacies of cosmetic products, providing support for further development of anti-blue light cosmetics.

摘要

背景

先前的研究表明,可见光(VL),尤其是蓝光(BL),会对皮肤造成显著损伤。随着VL防护产品的出现,人们提出了统一的光防护方法,但尚未在中国人群中广泛应用。

目的

基于此框架,我们提出一种准确且简化的方法,用于评估中国人群中蓝光防护的效果。

方法

所有受试者(n = 30)连续四天每天使用蓝色发光二极管灯进行照射。每次照射剂量为3/4最小持续色素沉着变黑(MPPD)。记录皮肤色素沉着参数,包括L、M和ITA°。我们基于皮肤色素沉着参数提出了蓝光防护因子(BPF)指标,以评估不同产品的抗蓝光效果。

结果

我们发现,随着蓝光暴露增加,色素沉着水平呈逐渐上升且呈线性变化。我们提出了BPF指标,以根据每日蓝光暴露后皮肤色素特征的线性变化来反映产品的抗蓝光效果。此外,我们发现BPF指标能够清晰地区分两种产品与对照组之间的抗蓝光效果,这表明BPF是一种用于抗蓝光评估的高效且易于使用的指标。

结论

我们的研究提出了一种准确且简化的方法,以及一个易于使用的指标BPF,以准确表征化妆品的抗蓝光效果,为抗蓝光化妆品的进一步开发提供了支持。

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本文引用的文献

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Induced skin aging by blue-light irradiation in human skin fibroblasts via TGF-β, JNK and EGFR pathways.蓝光辐照通过 TGF-β、JNK 和 EGFR 通路诱导人皮肤成纤维细胞皮肤衰老。
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Direct and Indirect Effects of Blue Light Exposure on Skin: A Review of Published Literature.蓝光照射对皮肤的直接和间接影响:已发表文献综述
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Photoprotection of the Skin from Visible Light‒Induced Pigmentation: Current Testing Methods and Proposed Harmonization.
可见光诱导色素沉着的皮肤光保护:当前测试方法和拟议的协调。
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Blue Light Protection, Part I-Effects of blue light on the skin.蓝光防护,第一部分——蓝光对皮肤的影响。
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Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them.蓝光照射对皮肤的色素沉着影响以及如何防护。
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Aug;42(4):399-406. doi: 10.1111/ics.12637.
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Clinical evaluation method for blue light (456 nm) protection of skin.蓝光(456纳米)对皮肤防护作用的临床评估方法
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Sep;19(9):2438-2443. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13508. Epub 2020 Jun 16.
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Hydroxytyrosol from olive fruits prevents blue-light-induced damage in human keratinocytes and fibroblasts.橄榄果实中的羟基酪醇可预防蓝光对人角质细胞和成纤维细胞的损伤。
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Children's Environmental Health in the Digital Era: Understanding Early Screen Exposure as a Preventable Risk Factor for Obesity and Sleep Disorders.数字时代的儿童环境健康:将早期屏幕暴露理解为肥胖和睡眠障碍的可预防风险因素。
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