Bueno-Mancebo Jose, Barrena Raquel, Artola Adriana, Gea Teresa, Altmajer-Vaz Deisi
Composting Research Group, Departament d'Enginyeria Química, Biològica i Ambiental, Escola d'Enginyeria, Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona, Barcelona, Spain.
Chemical Engineering Department, Faculty of Science, University of Granada, Granada, Spain.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2024 Oct;46(5):702-716. doi: 10.1111/ics.12957. Epub 2024 Mar 13.
Surfactin is a natural surfactant almost exclusively produced by Bacillus species with excellent physical-chemical, and biological properties. Among innovative applications, surfactin has been recently used as an ingredient in formulations. The antibacterial and anti-acne activities, as well as the anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and cleansing features, are some of the reasons this lipopeptide is used in cosmetics. Considering the importance of biosurfactants in the world economy and sustainability, their potential properties for cosmetic and dermatological products, and the importance of patents for technological advancement in a circular bioeconomy system, the present study aims to review all patents involving surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic formulas. This review was conducted through Espacenet, wherein patents containing the terms "cosmetic" and "surfactin" in their titles, abstracts, or claims were examined. Those patents that detailed a specific surfactin dosage within their formulations were selected for analysis. All patents, irrespective of their publication date, from October 1989 to December 2022, were considered. Additionally, a comprehensive search was performed in the MEDLINE and EMBASE databases, spanning from their inception until the year 2023. This complementary search aimed to enrich the understanding derived from patents, with a specific emphasis on surfactin, encompassing its associated advantages, efficacy, mechanisms of action on the skin, as well as aspects related to sustainability and its merits in cosmetic formulations. From the 105 patents analysed, 75% belong to Japan (54), China (14), and Korea (9). Most of them were submitted by Asian companies such as Showa Denko (15), Kaneka (11) and Kao Corporation (5). The formulations described are mainly emulsions, skincare, cleansing, and haircare, and the surfactin dose does not exceed 5%. Surfactin appears in different types of formulas worldwide and has a high tendency to be used. Surfactin and other biosurfactants are a promising alternative to chemical ingredients in cosmetic formulations, guaranteeing skin health benefits and minimizing the impact on the environment.
表面活性素是一种几乎仅由芽孢杆菌属产生的天然表面活性剂，具有优异的物理化学和生物学特性。在创新应用中，表面活性素最近已被用作配方中的一种成分。抗菌和抗痤疮活性，以及抗皱、保湿和清洁特性，是这种脂肽被用于化妆品的部分原因。考虑到生物表面活性剂在世界经济和可持续发展中的重要性、它们在化妆品和皮肤科产品中的潜在特性，以及专利在循环生物经济系统技术进步中的重要性，本研究旨在综述所有涉及表面活性素作为化妆品配方成分的专利。本综述通过Espacenet进行，其中对标题、摘要或权利要求中包含“化妆品”和“表面活性素”的专利进行了审查。选择那些在其配方中详细说明了特定表面活性素剂量的专利进行分析。考虑了1989年10月至2022年12月期间的所有专利，无论其公布日期如何。此外，在MEDLINE和EMBASE数据库中进行了全面搜索，涵盖从其创建到2023年的时间段。这项补充搜索旨在丰富从专利中获得的理解，特别强调表面活性素，包括其相关优势、功效、对皮肤的作用机制，以及与可持续性及其在化妆品配方中的优点相关的方面。在分析的105项专利中，75%属于日本（54项）、中国（14项）和韩国（9项）。其中大多数是由昭和电工（15项）、钟渊化学（11项）和花王株式会社（5项）等亚洲公司提交的。所描述的配方主要是乳液、护肤品、清洁剂和护发品，表面活性素的剂量不超过5%。表面活性素在全球不同类型的配方中出现，并且有很高的被使用倾向。表面活性素和其他生物表面活性剂是化妆品配方中化学成分的有前途的替代品，可确保对皮肤有益并将对环境的影响降至最低。
