Adu Simms A, Naughton Patrick J, Marchant Roger, Banat Ibrahim M
The Nutrition Innovation Centre for Food and Health (NICHE), School of Biomedical Sciences, Faculty of Life and Health Sciences, Ulster University, Coleraine BT52 1SA, Northern Ireland, UK.
Pharmaceutical Science Research Group, Biomedical Science Research Institute, Ulster University, Coleraine BT52 1SA, Northern Ireland, UK.
Pharmaceutics. 2020 Nov 16;12(11):1099. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics12111099.
Cosmetic and personal care products are globally used and often applied directly on the human skin. According to a recent survey in Europe, the market value of cosmetic and personal care products in Western Europe reached about 84 billion euros in 2018 and are predicted to increase by approximately 6% by the end of 2020. With these significant sums of money spent annually on cosmetic and personal care products, along with chemical surfactants being the main ingredient in a number of their formulations, of which many have been reported to have the potential to cause detrimental effects such as allergic reactions and skin irritations to the human skin; hence, the need for the replacement of chemical surfactants with other compounds that would have less or no negative effects on skin health. Biosurfactants (surfactants of biological origin) have exhibited great potential such as lower toxicity, skin compatibility, protection and surface moisturizing effects which are key components for an effective skincare routine. This review discusses the antimicrobial, skin surface moisturizing and low toxicity properties of glycolipid and lipopeptide biosurfactants which could make them suitable substitutes for chemical surfactants in current cosmetic and personal skincare pharmaceutical formulations. Finally, we discuss some challenges and possible solutions for biosurfactant applications.
化妆品和个人护理产品在全球范围内被使用,并且常常直接涂抹在人体皮肤上。根据欧洲最近的一项调查,2018年西欧化妆品和个人护理产品的市场价值达到约840亿欧元,预计到2020年底将增长约6%。由于每年在化妆品和个人护理产品上花费巨大,而且化学表面活性剂是其许多配方中的主要成分,据报道其中许多可能对人体皮肤造成有害影响,如过敏反应和皮肤刺激;因此,需要用其他对皮肤健康影响较小或没有负面影响的化合物来替代化学表面活性剂。生物表面活性剂(生物来源的表面活性剂)已展现出巨大潜力,如较低的毒性、皮肤兼容性、保护和表面保湿作用,这些都是有效护肤程序的关键组成部分。本综述讨论了糖脂和脂肽生物表面活性剂的抗菌、皮肤表面保湿和低毒性特性,这些特性可能使它们成为当前化妆品和个人护肤药物配方中化学表面活性剂的合适替代品。最后,我们讨论了生物表面活性剂应用的一些挑战和可能的解决方案。
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