CBQF-Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina-Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua de Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal.
Amyris Bio Products Portugal, Rua de Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal.
Int J Mol Sci. 2024 Mar 12;25(6):3215. doi: 10.3390/ijms25063215.
The encapsulation of retinol within silica microparticles has emerged as a promising opportunity in the realm of cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations, driven by the need to reinforce the photoprotection and oxidation stability of retinol. This work examines the process of encapsulating retinol into silica microparticles. The association efficiency, microparticle size, molecular structure, morphology, oxidation, and release profile, as well as biocompatibility and skin sensitization, were evaluated. Results showed that 0.03% of retinol and 9% of emulsifier leads to an association efficiency higher than 99% and a particle size with an average of 5.2 µm. FTIR results indicate that there is an association of retinol with the silica microparticles, and some may be on the surface. Microscopy indicates that when association happens, there is less aggregation of the particles. Oxidation occurs in two different phases, the first related to the retinol on the surface and the second to the associated retinol. In addition, a burst release of up to 3 h (30% free retinol, 17% associated retinol) was observed, as well as a sustained release of 44% of retinol up to 24 h. Encapsulation allowed an increase in the minimal skin cytotoxic concentrations of retinol from 0.04 μg/mL to 1.25 mg/mL without skin sensitization. Overall, retinol is protected when associated with silica microparticles, being safe to use in cosmetics and dermatology.
视黄醇被包封在二氧化硅微球中,成为化妆品和药物制剂领域中一种很有前途的方法,因为它可以增强视黄醇的光保护和氧化稳定性。本研究考察了将视黄醇包封在二氧化硅微球中的过程。评估了包封的视黄醇的结合效率、微球粒径、分子结构、形态、氧化和释放特性、生物相容性和皮肤致敏性。结果表明,当视黄醇和乳化剂的浓度分别为 0.03%和 9%时,结合效率大于 99%,平均粒径为 5.2 µm。FTIR 结果表明视黄醇与二氧化硅微球有结合,部分可能在表面。显微镜结果表明,当发生结合时,颗粒的聚集减少。氧化分两个不同的阶段发生,第一阶段与表面的视黄醇有关,第二阶段与结合的视黄醇有关。此外,观察到高达 3 小时(30%游离视黄醇,17%结合视黄醇)的突释,以及长达 24 小时的 44%视黄醇的持续释放。包封使视黄醇的最小皮肤细胞毒性浓度从 0.04 μg/mL 增加到 1.25 mg/mL,同时没有皮肤致敏性。总之,视黄醇与二氧化硅微球结合后得到了保护,可以安全地用于化妆品和皮肤病学。