a School of Physical Education, Sport and Exercise Sciences , University of Otago , Dunedin , New Zealand.
b Faculty of Behavioural and Movement Sciences , Vrije Universiteit, Amsterdam Movement Sciences , Amsterdam , Netherlands.
Eur J Sport Sci. 2018 Sep;18(8):1090-1099. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2018.1472812. Epub 2018 May 24.
Climbers often train on indoor climbing walls, which are modifiable to simulate features of outdoor climbing environments at different levels of difficulty. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of regularity of climbing holds on emergent perceptual-motor behaviours. Skilled climbers performed six repetitions of two topographically similar routes on an indoor climbing wall. One route was composed of 18 different types of hand holds (irregular route), whereas the other route had only two types of hand holds (regular route). Preview and climbing durations, as well as visual search behaviours, were recorded. Participants rated the regular route as more difficult to climb, requiring greater perceived effort to complete. The time spent previewing, and then climbing the routes, was reduced on average by 12% and 16%, respectively in the irregular route compared to the regular route. There were more fixations made when climbing the regular route (281 vs. 222 fixations per trial). It seems the climbers were more careful and thorough in their gaze behaviours with the regular route because of the additional technical demands it presented, whereas the irregular route afforded a more superficial visual exploration with use of more frequent saccades between holds. The findings suggest how irregularity in the environment is exploited by skilled climbers, apparently making the practice context easier to perceive and act in.
攀登者通常在室内攀岩墙上进行训练，这些攀岩墙可以进行调整以模拟不同难度的户外攀岩环境的特征。本研究旨在评估攀岩握把的规则性对出现的知觉运动行为的影响。熟练的攀岩者在室内攀岩墙上重复进行了两次地形相似的路线的六次攀爬。一条路线由 18 种不同类型的手握点组成（不规则路线），而另一条路线只有两种类型的手握点（规则路线）。记录了预观和攀爬时间以及视觉搜索行为。参与者认为规则路线更难攀爬，需要更大的感知努力才能完成。与规则路线相比，不规则路线的预观时间和攀爬时间平均分别减少了 12%和 16%。在攀爬规则路线时，注视次数更多（每次试验 281 次与 222 次注视）。由于规则路线提出了更多的技术要求，因此攀岩者在其注视行为上更加小心和彻底，而不规则路线则通过在手握点之间更频繁地进行扫视，提供了更浅层的视觉探索。研究结果表明，熟练的攀岩者如何利用环境的不规则性，显然使练习环境更容易感知和行动。
