Institute of Sports Science, Technical University of Darmstadt, Darmstadt, Germany.
Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Bergen, Norway.
PLoS One. 2024 Jul 8;19(7):e0306300. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0306300. eCollection 2024.
Recent research has elucidated the effects of strength training on climbing performance. Although local muscular endurance training of the upper-limbs and finger flexors is frequently suggested, there is currently insufficient evidence to support its impact on climbing performance and climbing-specific strength. Furthermore, there is no evidence on climbers' experiences related to training and the likelihood of consistent engagement. In addition, the effects of more climbing-specific strength training on walls with built in lights and adjustable angles have yet to be examined. The low percentage of studies involving female subjects, additionally, demonstrates a significant gap in understanding the specific effects of strength training on women in the context of climbing. The aim of this study was thus to assess the effects of five-week on-, and off-the-wall climbing training on climbing performance, climbing-specific strength, and training experience. Thirty-one female lower-grade to advanced climbers were randomly assigned to either a control group, an off-the-wall training or an on-the-wall training group. Apart from the training regimen, all groups followed their usual climbing and bouldering routine. Subjects trained at least twice a week. Bouldering performance, and maximum strength and muscular endurance of the finger flexors and upper-limbs were assessed before and after the intervention. Furthermore, rate of perceived exertion and discomfort, exercise enjoyment, and exercise pleasure were assessed during the first and last training session, as well as after two and a half weeks of training. Intrinsic training motivation was assessed after the last training session. The results showed trends towards positive effects of off-the-wall training on climbing-specific strength, and on-the-wall training on climbing technique. Furthermore, our finding revealed high exercise enjoyment and intrinsic training motivation for both on- and off-the-wall training. Hence, lower-grade to advanced female climbers should rely on personal training preferences.
最近的研究阐明了力量训练对攀岩表现的影响。尽管经常建议进行上肢和手指屈肌的局部肌肉耐力训练，但目前没有足够的证据支持其对攀岩表现和攀岩专项力量的影响。此外，也没有关于攀岩者与训练相关的体验和持续参与可能性的证据。此外，更多针对攀岩专项力量的训练对带有内置灯光和可调节角度的墙壁的影响尚未被研究。涉及女性受试者的研究比例较低，进一步表明在理解力量训练对女性在攀岩环境中的具体影响方面存在重大差距。因此，本研究旨在评估为期五周的室内和室外攀岩训练对攀岩表现、攀岩专项力量和训练体验的影响。31 名女性低级到高级攀岩者被随机分配到对照组、室外训练组或室内训练组。除了训练方案外，所有组都按照他们通常的攀岩和抱石常规进行训练。受试者每周至少训练两次。在干预前后评估了抱石表现、手指屈肌和上肢的最大力量和肌肉耐力。此外，在第一次和最后一次训练期间以及训练两周半后，评估了感知的努力程度和不适、运动享受和运动乐趣。在最后一次训练后评估了内在训练动机。结果显示，室外训练对攀岩专项力量有积极影响的趋势，室内训练对攀岩技术有积极影响的趋势。此外，我们的研究结果表明，室内和室外训练都具有很高的运动享受和内在训练动机。因此，低级到高级的女性攀岩者应该依赖于个人的训练偏好。
