Western Norway University, Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Campus Sogndal, Sogndal, Norway.
University of Exeter, Department of Sport and Health Sciences, Exeter, United Kingdom.
PLoS One. 2018 Oct 10;13(10):e0203766. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0203766. eCollection 2018.
This is the first study to compare the effects of isometric vs. dynamic core training and characterize core-training adaptations using climbing-specific performance and core strength tests in elite climbers. The aim of the study was to compare the effects of attending a progressive core-training program on climbing performance. 19 advanced and elite climbers (7.3±5.6 years climbing experience, red point skill grade 19 IRCRA) were randomized into a dynamic (DCT) or isometric (ICT) core training group and trained twice weekly for ten weeks. The climbers were tested using two climbing-specific core tests (body lock-off and body-lift) and four non-specific core strength tests-one dynamic (superman) and three isometric (trunk flexion and trunk rotation left and right). Between group comparisons showed no differences between the groups at post-test (p = 0.328-0.824) and neither group demonstrated greater improvement compared with the other (p = 0.300-0.926). The ICT group demonstrated 10.8% and 29.6% improvement in trunk flexion and body-lift (p = 0.029-0.037 with no improvement in body lock-off and rotation (p = 0.101-0.343). The DCT group demonstrated 5.0-14.9% improvement in the core strength tests (p = 0.012-0.043), a non-significant 33.8% improvement in body-lift (p = 0.100) and no improvement in body lock-off (p = 0.943). In conclusion, none of the training groups demonstrated greater improvement than the other and both dynamic and isometric core training improved climbing-specific test performance. Dynamic training was slightly more favorable although not significantly superior to isometric core training in improving core strength.
这是第一项比较等长与动力核心训练效果的研究，通过特定于攀岩的表现和核心力量测试来描述核心训练适应性，研究对象为精英攀岩运动员。该研究旨在比较参加渐进式核心训练计划对攀岩表现的影响。19 名高级和精英攀岩者（7.3±5.6 年攀岩经验，IRCRA 红点技能等级 19）被随机分为动力（DCT）或等长（ICT）核心训练组，每周训练两次，持续十周。使用两项特定于攀岩的核心测试（身体锁定和身体抬起）和四项非特定于核心的力量测试（一项动力（超人）和三项等长（躯干屈曲和躯干旋转左/右）对攀岩者进行测试。组间比较显示，两组在测试后无差异（p = 0.328-0.824），且两组之间也未显示出更大的改善（p = 0.300-0.926）。ICT 组在躯干屈曲和身体抬起方面分别提高了 10.8%和 29.6%（p = 0.029-0.037），而身体锁定和旋转方面没有改善（p = 0.101-0.343）。DCT 组在核心力量测试中分别提高了 5.0-14.9%（p = 0.012-0.043），身体抬起的非显著性提高了 33.8%（p = 0.100），身体锁定没有改善（p = 0.943）。总之，没有一个训练组比其他组表现出更大的改善，动力和等长核心训练都改善了特定于攀岩的测试表现。虽然动力训练在改善核心力量方面略优于等长核心训练，但并不具有显著优势。
