Lewicka Kamila, Smola-Dmochowska Anna, Dobrzyński Piotr, Śmigiel-Gac Natalia, Jelonek Katarzyna, Musiał-Kulik Monika, Rychter Piotr
Faculty of Science and Technology, Jan Dlugosz University in Czestochowa, 13/15 Armii Krajowej Av., 42-200 Czestochowa, Poland.
Centre of Polymer and Carbon Materials, Polish Academy of Sciences, 41-819 Zabrze, Poland.
Polymers (Basel). 2024 Jun 26;16(13):1815. doi: 10.3390/polym16131815.
Chitosan (CS) has a natural origin and is a biodegradable and biocompatible polymer with many skin-beneficial properties successfully used in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry. CS derivatives, especially those synthesized via a Schiff base reaction, are very important due to their unique antimicrobial activity. This study demonstrates research results on the use of hydrogel microspheres made of [chitosan--poly(ε-caprolactone)]--(ĸ-carrageenan)], [chitosan-2-pyridinecarboxaldehyde--poly(ε-caprolactone)]--(ĸ-carrageenan), and chitosan-sodium-4-formylbenzene-1,3-disulfonate--poly(ε-caprolactone)]--(ĸ-carrageenan) as innovative vitamin carriers for cosmetic formulation. A permeation study of retinol (vitamin A), L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and α-tocopherol (vitamin E) from the cream through a human skin model by the Franz Cell measurement system was presented. The quantitative analysis of the release of the vitamins added to the cream base, through the membrane, imitating human skin, showed a promising profile of its release/penetration, which is promising for the development of a cream with anti-aging properties. Additionally, the antibacterial activity of the polymers from which the microspheres are made allows for the elimination of preservatives and parabens as cosmetic formulation ingredients.
壳聚糖(CS)天然存在,是一种可生物降解且具有生物相容性的聚合物,具有许多对皮肤有益的特性,已成功应用于化妆品和制药行业。壳聚糖衍生物,尤其是通过席夫碱反应合成的衍生物,因其独特的抗菌活性而非常重要。本研究展示了关于使用由[壳聚糖-聚(ε-己内酯)]-(κ-卡拉胶)、[壳聚糖-2-吡啶甲醛-聚(ε-己内酯)]-(κ-卡拉胶)和壳聚糖-4-甲酰基苯-1,3-二磺酸钠-聚(ε-己内酯)]-(κ-卡拉胶)制成的水凝胶微球作为化妆品配方中创新型维生素载体的研究结果。通过Franz细胞测量系统,对乳膏中视黄醇(维生素A)、L-抗坏血酸(维生素C)和α-生育酚(维生素E)透过人体皮肤模型的渗透进行了研究。对添加到乳膏基质中的维生素通过模拟人体皮肤的膜的释放进行定量分析,结果显示其释放/渗透情况良好,这对于开发具有抗衰老特性的乳膏很有前景。此外,制成微球的聚合物的抗菌活性使得可以去除作为化妆品配方成分的防腐剂和对羟基苯甲酸酯。