Zhang Lisa, Hale Jo
UCL Centre for Behaviour Change, University College London, London WC1E 7HB, UK.
Sustainability. 2022 Aug 30;14(17):10821. doi: 10.3390/su141710821.
Repairing and repurposing clothes can extend their lifetime, helping reduce the environmental impacts of the fashion industry. We aimed to investigate influences on clothing repair and repurpose using the Theoretical Domains Framework. A survey was conducted with a representative sample of 300 UK citizens. The frequency of, and influences on, clothing repair and repurpose behaviour were measured with self-report scales and a free-text item. Quantitative (logistic regression) and qualitative (thematic) analyses were used to identify barriers and enablers of behaviour. Findings showed that participants typically engaged in the behaviour every six months. The main barriers concerned a lack of skills, poor product design, unaffordability of repair services, and incongruence with identity. Key enablers concerned the ability to focus during DIY tasks, dynamic social norms, beliefs about benefits of repairing, emotional attachment to clothing, and having routines and habits of repairing. This study is the first to apply the Behaviour Change Wheel to identify intervention types and behaviour change techniques that can modify these influences, such as training workshops and the provision of free repair and repurpose services. Policy options were suggested to support implementation, such as extended producer responsibility. Awareness and skill-building campaigns, while important, are not enough to support behaviour change; structural and policy changes are needed.
修补和改造衣物可以延长其使用寿命,有助于减少时尚产业对环境的影响。我们旨在运用理论领域框架来调查对衣物修补和改造的影响因素。对300名英国公民的代表性样本进行了一项调查。通过自我报告量表和一个自由填写项目来测量衣物修补和改造行为的频率及其影响因素。采用定量分析(逻辑回归)和定性分析(主题分析)来确定行为的障碍和促成因素。研究结果表明,参与者通常每六个月进行一次此类行为。主要障碍包括缺乏技能、产品设计不佳、修补服务费用过高以及与个人身份不符。关键的促成因素包括在自己动手任务中集中注意力的能力、动态的社会规范、对修补益处的信念、对衣物的情感依恋以及拥有修补的常规做法和习惯。本研究首次应用行为改变轮来确定能够改变这些影响因素的干预类型和行为改变技巧,如培训工作坊以及提供免费修补和改造服务。还提出了支持实施的政策选项,如扩大生产者责任。提高意识和技能培养活动虽然很重要,但不足以支持行为改变;还需要进行结构和政策变革。