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蒙泰西尼奥自然公园草莓树莓和蜂蜡在化妆品行业的价值提升——一个案例研究配方

Valorization of Strawberry Tree Berries and Beeswax from Montesinho Natural Park for Cosmetic Industry-A Case Study Formulation.

作者信息

Lamas Mariana, Silva Ana Margarida, Moreira Manuela M, Maia Maria Luz, Domingues Valentina F, Delerue-Matos Cristina, Amaral Maria Helena, Fernandes Virgínia Cruz, Rodrigues Francisca

机构信息

REQUIMTE/LAQV, ISEP, Polytechnic of Porto, Rua Dr. António Bernardino de Almeida 431, 4249-015 Porto, Portugal.

UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech-Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua de Jorge Viterbo Ferreira, 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal.

出版信息

Antioxidants (Basel). 2024 Sep 24;13(10):1152. doi: 10.3390/antiox13101152.

Abstract

Consumers are increasingly concerned about cosmetic ingredients' origin, looking more than ever to sustainable and greener formulations. The Natural Park of Montesinho, located in Portugal, is characterized by an enormous fauna and flora diversity. Among them, beeswax and strawberry trees () have attracted the cosmetic researchers' interest due to their bioactive compounds' richness, particularly fatty acids and phenolic compounds. The main goal of this study was to develop an innovative cosmetic product with antioxidant properties composed by both matrices. Briefly, samples were obtained in the Natural Park of Montesinho in October 2022. Beeswax was analysed for lipid profile and contaminants, while extracts were obtained from fruits by ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using water as a solvent. The effect of extraction time (15-90 min) was studied on the total phenolic content (TPC), in vitro antioxidant/antiradical activity, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging capacity. The beeswax lipid profile presented a high incidence of palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids. The extract obtained at 60 min presented the highest TPC (30.27 mg GAE/g dw) and antioxidant/antiradical activities (ABTS = 30.36 mg AAE/g dw; DPPH = 43.83 mg TE/g dw; FRAP = 415.61 µmol FSE/g dw). An IC of 19.78 µg/mL was achieved for the hypochlorous acid, while for superoxide radical and peroxyl radical the IC were, respectively, 90.51 µg/mL and 0.19 µmol TE/mg dw. The phytochemical profile revealed a high content of gallic acid, and catechin and its derivatives. The hydrophilic cream developed revealed ideal technological parameters, particularly its stability.

摘要

消费者越来越关注化妆品成分的来源,比以往任何时候都更倾向于可持续和更环保的配方。位于葡萄牙的蒙特西尼奥自然公园,以其丰富的动植物多样性为特色。其中,蜂蜡和草莓树()因其生物活性化合物丰富,特别是脂肪酸和酚类化合物,吸引了化妆品研究人员的兴趣。本研究的主要目标是开发一种由两种基质组成的具有抗氧化性能的创新化妆品。简而言之,2022年10月在蒙特西尼奥自然公园采集了样本。对蜂蜡进行了脂质谱和污染物分析,同时以水为溶剂通过超声辅助提取(UAE)从果实中获得提取物。研究了提取时间(15 - 90分钟)对总酚含量(TPC)、体外抗氧化/抗自由基活性和活性氧(ROS)清除能力的影响。蜂蜡脂质谱显示棕榈酸、油酸和亚油酸的含量较高。在60分钟时获得的提取物具有最高的TPC(30.27毫克没食子酸当量/克干重)和抗氧化/抗自由基活性(ABTS = 30.36毫克抗坏血酸当量/克干重;DPPH = 43.83毫克 Trolox当量/克干重;FRAP = 415.61微摩尔铁还原抗氧化能力当量/克干重)。次氯酸的IC50为19.78微克/毫升,而超氧自由基和过氧自由基的IC50分别为90.51微克/毫升和0.19微摩尔 Trolox当量/毫克干重。植物化学分析表明没食子酸、儿茶素及其衍生物含量较高。所开发的亲水性乳膏显示出理想的技术参数,尤其是其稳定性。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/daae/11504604/4005510dad52/antioxidants-13-01152-g001.jpg

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