Amini Nahid, Osterlund Christina, Curpen Jessen, Lafon-Kolb Virginie, Richard Thibaud, Visdal-Johnsen Lene
Global Research and Development, Oriflame Cosmetics, Stockholm, Sweden.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 Feb;24(2):e16719. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16719. Epub 2024 Dec 9.
The dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) is a dynamic scaffold composed mainly of proteins, with collagen as the key structural component providing resilience and support to the skin. Post-menopause, declining estrogen levels lead to a significant reduction in skin health, notably a 30% decrease in collagen types I and III within 5 years.
To discover natural extracts that stimulate collagen production.
We utilized PathwayStudio to analyze protein-protein interactions and identify regulators of essential collagen types. Our study assessed Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract's ability to boost collagen production and enhance dermal density both in vitro and in vivo.
PathwayStudio analysis highlighted phytoestrogens including glycyrrhizin, isoliquiritigenin, liquiritigenin, liquiritin, and glabrol, as potential candidates. Liquorice rhizome (G. uralensis), used in traditional Chinese medicine, is rich in phytoestrogens like liquiritigenin. The G. uralensis extract increased collagen I and III gene expression and pro-collagen I protein levels in human dermal fibroblasts and inhibited UVB and pollution-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP1) production. In an in vivo study, a topical formulation containing the extract significantly improved dermal density after 56 days, measured by the DUB SkinScanner.
These findings suggest G. uralensis extract as a promising agent for enhancing collagen production and skin health, particularly in postmenopausal women. Further research is needed to explore its mechanisms and long-term effects.
真皮细胞外基质(ECM)是一种主要由蛋白质组成的动态支架,胶原蛋白是关键的结构成分,为皮肤提供弹性和支撑。绝经后,雌激素水平下降导致皮肤健康显著下降,尤其是在5年内I型和III型胶原蛋白减少30%。
发现刺激胶原蛋白生成的天然提取物。
我们利用PathwayStudio分析蛋白质-蛋白质相互作用,并确定关键胶原蛋白类型的调节因子。我们的研究评估了甘草提取物在体外和体内促进胶原蛋白生成和提高真皮密度的能力。
PathwayStudio分析突出了包括甘草甜素、异甘草素、甘草素、甘草苷和光甘草定在内的植物雌激素作为潜在候选物。用于传统中药的甘草根茎富含甘草素等植物雌激素。甘草提取物增加了人真皮成纤维细胞中I型和III型胶原蛋白基因表达以及前胶原蛋白I蛋白水平,并抑制了紫外线B和污染诱导的基质金属蛋白酶-1(MMP1)生成。在一项体内研究中,含有该提取物的局部制剂在56天后通过DUB皮肤扫描仪测量显著改善了真皮密度。
这些发现表明甘草提取物是一种有前景的增强胶原蛋白生成和皮肤健康的药物,尤其是在绝经后女性中。需要进一步研究来探索其机制和长期影响。