Mercurio Daiane G, Flament Frederic, Muller Benoit, Bernerd Francoise, Josso Martin, Jager-Lezer Nathalie, Delaunay Caroline, Passeron Thierry
L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Clichy, France.
Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2025 Jan;41(1):e13020. doi: 10.1111/phpp.13020.
Conventional sunscreens shield the skin from ultraviolet (UV) rays up to 370 nm leaving wavelengths between 370 and 400 nm unfiltered despite their potentially harmful biological and clinical effects.
The beneficial effects of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) UVA1 filter were explored at 1% in a SPF50 sunscreen under outdoors summer conditions against pigmentation and aging signs compared against a reference SPF50 without the MCE filter.
A prospective randomized comparative intra-individual study was conducted in 52 Brazilian women (phototype I-III). A hemiface application was performed for the SPF50 sunscreen with 1% MCE and SPF50 reference without MCE before 1-h outdoor sunlight exposure, twice daily for 4 weeks. Study endpoint included expert panel grading of pigmentation (3), vascular (1) signs as well as facial skin ageing and assessment of facial skin radiance and skin homogeneity by a naïve panel.
Significant differences were reported for all facial signs comparing areas protected with SPF50/MCE and SPF50, respectively: upper lip wrinkles, crow's feet wrinkles, upper lip texture, upper lip pigmentation, vascular abnormalities (all p < 0.0001), texture of the mouth contour (p = 0.001), ptosis of lower face (p = 0.003), lateral facial pigmentation (p = 0.005), and whole face pigmentation (p = 0.01). The evaluations performed by naïve panel showed a significant superiority of the SPF50/MCE product for skin homogeneity (p = 0.043).
Overall, this study demonstrates a significant gain of protection with the SPF50 containing 1% MCE in reducing hyperpigmentation, redness and aging signs compared to the same SPF50 sunscreen without MCE, thus supporting the need for an enlarged UVA1 photoprotection.
传统防晒霜可保护皮肤免受波长高达370纳米的紫外线（UV）伤害，但对于370至400纳米之间的波长却没有过滤作用，尽管这些波长可能具有有害的生物学和临床影响。
在户外夏季条件下，研究含1%甲氧基丙基氨基环己烯基亚乙基氧基乙基氰基乙酸酯（MCE）的UVA1滤光剂的防晒系数为50的防晒霜对色素沉着和衰老迹象的有益效果，并与不含MCE滤光剂的对照防晒系数为50的防晒霜进行比较。
对52名巴西女性（皮肤类型I-III）进行了一项前瞻性随机个体内对照研究。在每天户外阳光照射1小时前，对52名受试者的半脸分别涂抹含1%MCE的防晒系数为50的防晒霜和不含MCE的对照防晒系数为50的防晒霜，每天两次，共4周。研究终点包括专家小组对色素沉着（3项）、血管状况（1项）的分级以及面部皮肤老化情况，同时由非专业小组对面部皮肤光泽度和皮肤均匀度进行评估。
分别比较使用防晒系数为50/MCE和防晒系数为50的防晒霜所保护的区域，所有面部体征均存在显著差异：上唇皱纹、鱼尾纹、上唇质地、上唇色素沉着、血管异常（均p<0.0001）、口周轮廓质地（p = 0.001）、下脸皮肤下垂（p = 0.003）、面部外侧色素沉着（p = 0.005）和全脸色素沉着（p = 0.01）。非专业小组的评估显示，防晒系数为50/MCE的产品在皮肤均匀度方面具有显著优势（p = 0.043）。
总体而言，本研究表明，与不含MCE的相同防晒系数为50的防晒霜相比，含1%MCE的防晒系数为50的防晒霜在减少色素沉着、泛红和衰老迹象方面具有显著的防护效果，从而支持扩大UVA1光防护的必要性。
