IUF Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine, Dusseldorf, Germany.
Medical faculty, Heinrich-Heine-University, Dusseldorf, Germany.
Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2021 Nov;37(6):482-489. doi: 10.1111/phpp.12688. Epub 2021 May 6.
Extrinsic skin aging or photoaging was previously thought to be almost exclusively due to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, recent literature has described other contributing factors and clarification is thus required as to what extent and what type of daily photoprotection is needed to mitigate extrinsic skin aging.
We reviewed the existing scientific evidence on daily photoprotection, and specific requirements at the product level, to prevent extrinsic skin aging. We critically reviewed the existing evidence on potential ecological and toxicological risks which might be associated with daily photoprotection.
Evidence shows that broad protection against the entire solar range of UVB, UVA, UVA1, visible light, and short infrared (IRA) is required to prevent extrinsic aging. Other exposome factors, such as air pollution and smoking, also contribute to skin aging. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen photoprotection should thus contain antioxidant ingredients for additional benefits against UV, IRA, and pollution-induced oxidative stress as well as anti-aging active ingredients to provide clinical benefits against skin aging signs, such as wrinkles and dark spots. Broad-spectrum sunscreen containing pigments, such as iron oxide, may be required for melasma prevention. There is no conclusive clinical evidence that daily sunscreen use is unsafe or that it compromises vitamin D synthesis.
Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen containing antioxidant and anti-aging active ingredients can effectively reduce extrinsic aging.
先前认为外在皮肤老化或光老化几乎完全是由太阳紫外线 (UV) 辐射引起的。然而,最近的文献描述了其他促成因素,因此需要明确需要多大程度以及哪种类型的日常防晒来减轻外在皮肤老化。
我们回顾了有关日常防晒以预防外在皮肤老化的现有科学证据,以及产品层面的具体要求。我们批判性地审查了与日常防晒相关的潜在生态和毒理学风险的现有证据。
有证据表明,需要进行广泛的保护,以防止整个太阳范围的 UVB、UVA、UVA1、可见光和短红外线 (IRA) 对皮肤造成伤害,从而预防外在老化。其他暴露因素,如空气污染和吸烟,也会导致皮肤老化。因此,日常广谱防晒霜防护应含有抗氧化成分,以提供额外的益处,抵御 UV、IRA 和污染引起的氧化应激,以及抗衰老的活性成分,以提供临床益处,防止皮肤老化迹象,如皱纹和黑斑。含有氧化铁等颜料的广谱防晒霜可能是预防黄褐斑所必需的。目前没有确凿的临床证据表明每天使用防晒霜不安全,或者会影响维生素 D 的合成。
使用含有抗氧化和抗衰老活性成分的广谱防晒霜可以有效减少外在老化。