So Pamela Berilyn, Wang Ying-Chu, Huang Pao-Hsien, Wu Tzu-Hui, Yen Feng-Lin
Department of Fragrance and Cosmetic Science, College of Pharmacy, Kaohsiung Medical University, Kaohsiung 807378, Taiwan.
Department of Medical Research, Kaohsiung Medical University Hospital, Kaohsiung 807378, Taiwan.
Int J Mol Sci. 2025 Mar 25;26(7):2966. doi: 10.3390/ijms26072966.
Various whitening cosmetics are available in the market, usually containing active whitening ingredients. However, most of the reported active ingredients have low dermal penetration due to their lipophilic structure. Therefore, it is necessary to develop effective whitening agents and novel formulations to address this. In previous studies, natural compounds such as chalcones have shown inhibitory effects on tyrosinase. However, most chalcone compounds have the disadvantage of poor water solubility, which restricts their dermal absorption. Flavokawain C (FKC) is a natural chalcone obtained from the root of the kava tree () and can also be obtained through organic synthesis. Since FKC is a chalcone, it is also water-insoluble, showing poor dermal absorption. In this study, electrospinning technology was used to develop FKC nanofibers (FKCNFs) to improve FKC's physicochemical properties. The results showed that FKCNFs significantly improved water solubility and percutaneous absorption. Based on the results of in vitro experiments with B16F10 melanoma cells, 10 µM FKCNFs repressed the expressions of melanogenesis-related proteins MITF and TRP2. Furthermore, cosmetic safety assessment revealed that FKCNFs displayed a good margin of safety. This study suggests that FKCNFs have great potential as an effective active ingredient for whitening cosmetics.
市场上有各种各样的美白化妆品,通常含有活性美白成分。然而,由于其亲脂性结构,大多数已报道的活性成分经皮渗透率较低。因此,有必要开发有效的美白剂和新型配方来解决这一问题。在先前的研究中,诸如查尔酮之类的天然化合物已显示出对酪氨酸酶的抑制作用。然而,大多数查尔酮化合物具有水溶性差的缺点,这限制了它们的经皮吸收。黄樟素C(FKC)是一种从卡瓦树根中提取的天然查尔酮,也可以通过有机合成获得。由于FKC是一种查尔酮,它也不溶于水,经皮吸收性较差。在本研究中,采用静电纺丝技术制备FKC纳米纤维(FKCNFs)以改善FKC的理化性质。结果表明,FKCNFs显著提高了水溶性和经皮吸收。基于对B16F10黑色素瘤细胞的体外实验结果,10µM FKCNFs抑制了黑色素生成相关蛋白MITF和TRP2的表达。此外,化妆品安全性评估表明FKCNFs具有良好的安全边际。本研究表明,FKCNFs作为美白化妆品的有效活性成分具有巨大潜力。