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药妆品中的乙酰基六肽-8——皮肤渗透性与功效综述

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in Cosmeceuticals-A Review of Skin Permeability and Efficacy.

作者信息

Zdrada-Nowak Julita, Surgiel-Gemza Agnieszka, Szatkowska Magdalena

机构信息

Department of Cosmetology and Medical Biology, Wladyslaw Bieganski Collegium Medicum, Jan Dlugosz University, 42-200 Czestochowa, Poland.

出版信息

Int J Mol Sci. 2025 Jun 14;26(12):5722. doi: 10.3390/ijms26125722.

Abstract

Biomimetic peptides represent a growing class of active ingredients in modern cosmeceuticals, designed to mimic the function of the naturally occurring peptides involved in skin homeostasis, repair, and regeneration. Among them, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AH-8), often referred to as a "botox-like" peptide, has received considerable attention for its potential to dynamically reduce wrinkles through the modulation of neuromuscular activity. AH-8 is widely used in topical formulations intended for anti-aging effects, scar treatment, and skin rejuvenation. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the structure and proposed mechanisms of action of AH-8, with particular focus on its efficacy and skin penetration properties. Due to its hydrophilic nature and relatively large molecular size, AH-8 faces limited permeability through the lipophilic stratum corneum, making effective dermal delivery challenging. Formulation strategies such as oil-in-water (O/W) and multiple water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsions have been explored to enhance its delivery, but the ability of AH-8 to reach neuromuscular junctions remains uncertain. Preclinical and clinical studies indicate that AH-8 may reduce wrinkle depth, improve skin elasticity, and enhance hydration. However, the precise biological mechanisms underlying these effects-particularly the peptide's ability to inhibit muscle contraction when applied topically-remain incompletely understood. In some studies, AH-8 has also shown beneficial effects in scar remodeling and sebum regulation. Despite promising cosmetic outcomes, AH-8's low skin penetration limits its bioavailability and therapeutic potential. This review emphasizes the need for further research on formulation science and delivery systems, which are essential for optimizing the effectiveness of peptide-based cosmeceuticals and validating their use as non-invasive alternatives to injectable treatments.

摘要

仿生肽是现代药妆品中一类不断增长的活性成分,旨在模拟参与皮肤稳态、修复和再生的天然存在的肽的功能。其中,乙酰基六肽-8(AH-8),常被称为“类肉毒素”肽,因其通过调节神经肌肉活动动态减少皱纹的潜力而受到了广泛关注。AH-8广泛用于具有抗老化效果、疤痕治疗和皮肤修复作用的局部用制剂中。本综述全面概述了AH-8的结构和作用机制,特别关注其功效和皮肤渗透特性。由于其亲水性和相对较大的分子尺寸,AH-8在通过亲脂性角质层时面临有限的渗透性,这使得有效的真皮递送具有挑战性。已探索了诸如水包油(O/W)和多重水包油包水(W/O/W)乳液等制剂策略来增强其递送,但AH-8到达神经肌肉接头的能力仍不确定。临床前和临床研究表明,AH-8可能会减少皱纹深度、改善皮肤弹性并增强水合作用。然而,这些作用背后的确切生物学机制,尤其是局部应用时该肽抑制肌肉收缩的能力,仍未完全了解。在一些研究中,AH-8在疤痕重塑和皮脂调节方面也显示出有益效果。尽管有令人期待的美容效果,但AH-8较低的皮肤渗透性限制了其生物利用度和治疗潜力。本综述强调需要对制剂科学和递送系统进行进一步研究,这对于优化基于肽的药妆品的有效性并验证其作为注射治疗的非侵入性替代方法的用途至关重要。

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