Şentürk Tuğba Buse, Barak Timur Hakan, Çağlar Emre Şefik, Saldamlı Emine, Özdemir Nath Ebru, Özdemir Zafer Ömer
Department of Pharmacognosy, Faculty of Pharmacy, Acıbadem Mehmet Ali Aydınlar University, Ataşehir, 34752 İstanbul, Turkey.
Department of Pharmacognosy, Hamidiye Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Health Sciences, 34688 İstanbul, Turkey.
Gels. 2025 Aug 20;11(8):662. doi: 10.3390/gels11080662.
Ehrh. (great horsetail) belongs to the Equisetaceae family and its aerial parts have been traditionally used for skin conditions and to achieve healthy and resilient skin, nails, and hair. This study aimed to evaluate the inhibition of skin-related enzymes by, the antioxidant capacity of, and the phytochemical composition of . Additionally, a novel emulgel was formulated from the main methanolic extract and characterized in terms of pH, viscosity, determination of content quantification, textural profile analysis, and spreadability. After the characterization studies, in vitro release and ex vivo permeation and penetration studies were performed. Firstly, the dried aerial parts of were macerated in methanol, followed by partitioning with solvents of increasing polarity: -hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, and -butanol. Antioxidant activity was assessed using DPPH, FRAP, CUPRAC, and TOAC assays, while enzyme inhibition was analyzed for collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase. LC-MS/MS analysis identified 53 phytochemical compounds. Protocatechuic acid, the main phenolic compound, was quantitatively analyzed in each subfraction by HPTLC. The in vitro release studies showed sustained release of the reference substance (protocatechuic acid) and the kinetic modeling of the release was fitted to the Higuchi model. The ex vivo permeation and penetration studies showed that the formulation exhibited a retention of 3.06 ± 0.21 µg.cm after 24 h, whereas the suspended extract demonstrated a skin retention of 1.28 ± 0.47 µg.cm. Both the extracts and the formulated emulgel exhibited inhibitory effects on skin-related enzymes. Our finding suggested that might be a valuable ingredient for wrinkle care and skin-regenerating cosmetics.
木贼属（大型木贼）属于木贼科，其地上部分传统上用于治疗皮肤疾病，以实现皮肤、指甲和头发的健康与坚韧。本研究旨在评估木贼地上部分对皮肤相关酶的抑制作用、抗氧化能力及其植物化学成分。此外，由主要甲醇提取物制备了一种新型乳化凝胶，并对其pH值、粘度、含量定量测定、质地剖面分析和铺展性进行了表征。在表征研究之后，进行了体外释放以及离体渗透和穿透研究。首先，将木贼干燥的地上部分在甲醇中浸渍，然后用极性递增的溶剂进行分配：正己烷、氯仿、乙酸乙酯和正丁醇。使用DPPH、FRAP、CUPRAC和TOAC测定法评估抗氧化活性，同时分析对胶原酶、弹性蛋白酶、透明质酸酶和酪氨酸酶的酶抑制作用。LC-MS/MS分析鉴定出53种植物化学化合物。主要酚类化合物原儿茶酸通过HPTLC在每个亚组分中进行定量分析。体外释放研究表明参考物质（原儿茶酸）持续释放，释放动力学模型符合Higuchi模型。离体渗透和穿透研究表明，该制剂在24小时后表现出3.06±0.21μg·cm的皮肤滞留量，而悬浮提取物的皮肤滞留量为1.28±0.47μg·cm。提取物和制备的乳化凝胶对皮肤相关酶均表现出抑制作用。我们的研究结果表明，木贼可能是用于抗皱护理和皮肤再生化妆品的有价值成分。
