Sarnquist F H
West J Med. 1983 Oct;139(4):480-5.
The American Medical Research Expedition to Everest had a wide variety of medical problems, ranging from leech bites to high-altitude pulmonary edema. Preventive measures, however, such as careful attention to ingesting only pure water and food at the lower elevations and adequate personal hydration, nutrition and rest at extremely high altitude minimized the morbidity suffered by the group. Prophylactic administration of doxycycline was effective in reducing the severity of diarrheal illness in the group. Every member of the expedition suffered upper respiratory tract infections and many other infections, some of which were resistant to all therapy until the patient moved down from high altitude. Despite careful acclimatization, several cases of acute mountain sickness occurred and required descent to a lower altitude for treatment. Frostbite was avoided entirely.
美国珠穆朗玛峰医学考察队遇到了各种各样的医疗问题，从水蛭叮咬到高原肺水肿。然而，预防措施，如在较低海拔地区注意只饮用纯净水和食用干净食物，以及在极高海拔地区保证充足的个人水分摄入、营养和休息，将考察队成员的发病率降到了最低。预防性服用强力霉素有效地减轻了考察队成员腹泻疾病的严重程度。考察队的每个成员都患上了上呼吸道感染以及许多其他感染，其中一些感染在患者从高海拔地区下移之前对所有治疗都有抗药性。尽管进行了仔细的适应性训练，仍有几例急性高山病发生，需要下撤到较低海拔地区进行治疗。冻伤则完全避免了。
