Bennion M
J Am Diet Assoc. 1976 Jul;69(1):16-23.
Both regional and national influences have pervaded America's culinary arts from colonial times until the present. In the South, for instance, indigenous foods, such as sweet potatoes--as well as an abundance of fruits and fowl--were commonly served. In the North, maple sirup was a New England product, as was codfish. Throughout the colonies, corn was easily grown and became a staple. Immigrants from the Old World brought their recipes to meld or adapt to conditions they met here. Recounted also is the unfolding of an American cuisine, especially in the southern colonies as it evolved from European food preparation practices. Cooking was done in great fireplaces, with equipment designed to fit. Meat was generally boiled or stewed in pots hung in the fireplace, although it might be slow-roasted on a hand-turned spit. Hot breads, the hallmark of southern cooking, date from colonial days. In the Noth, the Dutch farmer's wife developed real skill in using flour from home-grown wheat and rye, creating pancakes, waffles, doughnuts, crullers, and so on. After the first hard winter, food in New England became more plentiful. Boston brown bread was made from corn, wheat, or rye and probably sweetened with maple sirup. Imports of coffee, tea, and spices from the Orient and fruit from the tropics were later added to the cuisine. Colonial Americans understood well the art of food preparation and appreciated the taste of well prepared, well seasoned dishes.
从殖民时代至今,地区和国家的影响一直渗透在美国的烹饪艺术中。例如,在南方,红薯等本土食物——以及大量的水果和禽类——是常见的菜肴。在北方,枫糖浆是新英格兰的特产,鳕鱼也是。在整个殖民地,玉米易于种植并成为主食。来自旧世界的移民带来了他们的食谱,以融合或适应他们在这里遇到的条件。文中还讲述了美国烹饪的发展历程,尤其是在南方殖民地,它是如何从欧洲的食物制作方法演变而来的。烹饪在巨大的壁炉中进行,使用的设备与之相适配。肉类通常在挂在壁炉里的锅里煮或炖,不过也可能在手动转动的烤叉上慢慢烤制。作为南方烹饪标志的热面包可以追溯到殖民时期。在北方,荷兰农民的妻子在使用自家种植的小麦和黑麦磨出的面粉方面练就了真功夫,制作出了煎饼、华夫饼、甜甜圈、油煎饼等等。在经历了第一个严冬之后,新英格兰的食物变得更加丰富。波士顿黑面包由玉米、小麦或黑麦制成,可能用枫糖浆调味。后来,从东方进口的咖啡、茶和香料以及热带水果也被加入到烹饪中。殖民地时期的美国人深谙食物制作的艺术,并欣赏精心烹制、调味得当的菜肴的味道。