Sebum rheology evaluated by two methods in vivo. Split-face study of the effect of a cosmetic formulation.

Modulation of the rheological characteristics of sebum at the surface of the skin might represent a valuable strategy for the treatment of seborrhea. In this field, only a small number of studies have addressed sebum diffusion within the stratum corneum. In an open, split-face study conducted on 20 men, we measured the sebosuppressive effect of Effidrate cream which is based on a glycerol alkyl-ether. Measurements were made in the morning at three-week intervals for a total period of 3 months. Sebum casual levels and sebum excretion rates were measured using a SM810 Sebumeter. Lipid-absorbent Sebutape was also used to collect all the sebum released from infundibular reservoirs over a four-hour period. Clinical assessments were relatively uninformative but the photometric measurements showed that Effidrate cream had a sebosuppressive action. The underlying biological mechanism remains unclear but a hypothesis based on enhanced sebum absorption by the stratum corneum is discussed.